Beijing’s crackdown on ‘sissy’ men could lead to an increase in gender-based violence, experts warn

In recent weeks, some of China’s most popular male idols have undergone a stark image change to adopt a more masculine look.

Some swapped out black turtlenecks for leather jackets, others went for slightly tougher hairstyles and less obvious use of foundation and lipstick.

It all came after the Chinese government banned so-called “effeminate men” from television screens and the internet.

However, not everyone is receptive to Beijing’s fashion advice, and experts warn that the edict could have deeper harmful results than superficial appearances.

‘Small fresh meat’

Men’s clothing has changed dramatically in China since the Mao era when olive green military uniforms were a must.

Back then, any kind of glamorous makeup or flashy jewelry would be referred to as “bourgeois,” no matter what gender one identified.

Since the mid-2000s, South Korean and K-pop dramas — which tend to feature men who are more feminine or androgynous — have become an increasingly dominant influence on Chinese pop culture.

The locally produced Korean-style idol that followed, referred to in China as “small fresh meat”, pushed the boundaries of what a man should look like.

In Chinese tech giant Tencent’s talent show Produce Camp, participants compete to be selected into an 11-member boy band, wearing unisex outfits, putting on makeup, and displaying a softer version of masculinity.

The show’s slogan, in a format imported from South Korea, is “redefining male aesthetics”.

Other successful productions, such as The Coming One, also by Tencent, and Youth With You by iQiyi, followed.

China is now the world’s largest market for skin care and men’s cosmetics.

Global industry research firm IBIS World this month reported demand continues to rise with Gen Y as the “major consumption group”.

As cosmetic brands hire more male celebrities to endorse their products, business research firm Mintel predicts the sector will expand 50 percent to 18.5 billion RMB (approximately $3.9 billion) by 2025.

What exactly is the ‘sissy’ crackdown?

Wang Shuaishuai, lecturer in new media and digital culture at the University of Amsterdam, said the trend has opened up new spaces for Chinese youth to explore different ways of expressing themselves.

Dr Wang said it was important to note that most of the widely acclaimed drama series and talent shows were produced by non-state-owned technology and media companies.

He said the problem for Chinese authorities was that their success came at the expense of state media, and thus eroded the government’s influence.

As with the crackdown on tutoring companies and technology companies, attacks on “sissy” fads are a way to reduce potential threats to state authorities, he said.

‘Aesthetics that change shape’

Last month, China’s National Radio and Television Administration instructed television and video streaming sites to “firmly put an end to ‘sissy’ and other flawed aesthetics”.

Media organizations were told to “scrutinize the selection of actors and guests, style of performance, costumes and make-up” and establish “the right aesthetic”.

According to an editorial published in the state-owned Guangming Daily newspaper, the patriotic hero and “wolf warrior” on Chinese TV screens is an ideal example of the male aesthetic.

“This is what young Chinese should look like,” the editorial said.

While Chinese television screens didn’t suddenly become dominated by the Vin Diesel and Jason Statham types, the decree didn’t go unnoticed.

Among those who got the memo was wildly popular singer Cai “Kun” Xukun, who has 36 million followers on social media platform Weibo and is described as “too beautiful to be real”.

Kun recently started posting selfies with a new, cooler look. No more salon-perfect black turtlenecks, earrings, quiffs and peroxide blonde makeup, and she’s even grown some facial hair.

‘Cultures in big cities are now more inclusive’

Beijing resident Meng Chang spends a lot of time every day choosing good clothes. She likes quality shirts, good accessories and sometimes wears a little concealer to cover blemishes and dark circles.

A self-described feminist, she is a journalist and has a podcast show called The Weirdos that discusses gender and culture and has over 500,000 subscribers.

In the mid to late 1990s, Australians might call it “metrosexual”, or more recently it might be “hipster”.

Meng said young Chinese people like her are more accepting of diverse gender expressions, and she has no intention of changing the way she dresses or behaves.

“The culture in big cities is now more inclusive,” he told the ABC.

“Being style conscious and taking care of yourself is no longer ‘effeminate’ or constrained by traditional gender stereotypes.

“When you walk down the street in your clothes, it’s an expression of who you are.

“It’s natural to want to show people: ‘I have my own ideas. I have my own aesthetic.'”

Not everyone thinks that government push is a big deal, or even always bad.

He Meiying, a 25-year-old Beijing resident and a fan of idol Luo Yizhou, said he supported the move.

“I personally support the regulation of the ‘sissy man’ culture,” He told the ABC.

He said he spends about 10 to 15 percent of his income supporting Luo in competitions or buying products he endorses.

Although she is the face of several cosmetic brands, He said she doesn’t see her as a “sissy” and so doesn’t think the crackdown will affect her much.

However, her stylist team may still be changing her image because “there is no clear definition of what ‘sissy’ behavior is”, she says.

Potential for increased discrimination

Dr Wang said he was shocked when he saw gender slurs being introduced into government policies.

“My concern is that young people will think it’s okay to use this gender slur to attack other people,” she said.

“Because if the government condones this kind of behavior and language, who else can say it’s wrong to use it in schools and the workplace?

“I hope that gender-based violence, harassment, intimidation will very likely increase.”

Nonetheless, Meng said she believes China’s progress towards a more open approach to gender identity will be difficult to reverse.

“I think the criticism of ‘sissy men’ may not disappear in the broad policy environment and public discourse – it may get worse – but progress in attitudes will continue at the same time,” he said.

“I’m one of those who are building a more tolerant social culture, and I can’t see myself being influenced by this dominant social culture anymore.”