Fendi is leading the Milan trend with a feminine silhouette for men

Milan Fashion Week’s preview for the following winter and fall continues for a second day Saturday, with guests enjoying the pandemic norm of social distancing compared to the cramped seating before. The calendar was trimmed after the omicron variant started surging in Italy last month, but the live show keeping it going is a sign of optimism after the January 2021 digital-only Milan Fashion Week.

Excited fans again thronged the pavement outside runway shows, hoping to catch a glimpse of Italian rapper Mahmoud at Fendi, or Machine Gun Kelly and fiancé Megan Fox at Dolce&Gabbana.

Usually, the men’s collections on the Milan runway this season have so far used a conservative color palette, leaving the silhouettes to take risks.

The Fendi collection for the fall and next winter is infused with the fashion house’s disciplined tailoring and elegance — with some welcome eccentricities to lighten things up. They include a leather aviator hat with a Moroccan fez flair.

The gray, black, and ivory color palette with flashes of red seems to indicate that the collection is going on as usual, but then Silvia Venturini Fendi incorporates some surprising silhouettes, starting with the men’s Bermuda shorts with stitching and flow skirts, worn with sheer knees and Mary Jane two-tone tapered with buckle. He then suggested wide-legged trousers that were only visible at the back. They are paired with jackets, or knitwear that has a feminine V peek-a-boo at the chest.

Leaning on femininity, this voluminous trapezoidal outerwear with loose sleeves is made with a crescendo with a gorgeous quilted cape coat in a black and white, or ivory square.

A model wears a creation for the Fendi collection autumn winter 22/23, in Milan. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

The accessories are never overdone, even when tripled: The bucket hat, cross-body bag, and night bag are aligned in perfect geometry. Fendi isn’t the first to put pearls on men, their dickie collars are anchored. The fashion house is also continuing the trend of small bags — forget the wallet and find a pocket for your phone — carried by men on chains.

While the womenswear at Fendi has been taken over by British designer Kim Jones, who has launched a buzzy collaboration with Versace, the menswear collection still carries the signature Silvia Venturini Fendi, representing Fendi’s third generation.

Machine Gun Kelly made the headlines at Dolce&Gabbana, made at least three outfit changes during the runway show, and handed his jacket to Fox in the front row before performing at the show’s closing. The rapper is known for his flamboyant outfits, and no doubt finds plenty to shop for on the runway.

A Dolce&Gabbana puffer coat and matching trousers make the Michelin man look slim, in bubblegum pink or streaked with seasonal graffiti prints. Warmth is so guaranteed that at least one model wears only branded underwear. As a cold-weather alternative, there’s a shaggy, snowman-like eco fur with matching boots and earmuffs.

This season’s jacket features exaggerated shoulders, is paired with leggings and worn with protective eyewear and sneakers. The silver sequined suit is stage-worthy, with the sheer spectacle frames perched on the nose in a way that’s more suggestive of laser sci-fi than reading glasses. The bold, graffiti-adorned streetwear ensemble is complemented by a blue high-knit hat that gives off a Marge Simpson feel.

While flash is as much a part of the Dolce&Gabbana repertoire as sewing, what’s more unexpected are skirts for men. A gold chain-tied tweed midi worn with a ripped DG T-shirt and leather collar. A black skirt features a DG graffiti doodle sweater. A shimmery pink-to-gold minidress or a long tunic, depending on your spin, paired with matching leggings.

Nothing about this season’s skirt silhouettes on the Milan menswear runway came as a surprise to the designers of the London-based brand JordanLuca, who made their debut in Milan.

“I think the spectrum of menswear is very broad now,” said Jordan Brown, who launched the label with Luca Marchetto four years ago. “We are so posting, posting, posting, what is menswear and womenswear.”

Tailored kilts, some with tulle panels, are a season mainstay at JordanLuca.

“About the skirt, the material is 4 or 5 meters. It’s really technical, it’s an engineered garment. Why wouldn’t a man wear it? Folds, folds, seams. It’s quite difficult to make,” said Brown backstage.

The brand’s eye-catching long-lean silhouette is accentuated by the long, wing-like hem on the fitted pants. The look is rock-n-roll, blending elements inspired by punk, glam and grunge. That includes trousers that are intentionally opened above the knee and tied with a rhinestone brooch or a soft mohair sweater accented with spiky strands tied around the neck.

The collection shows a strong desire to be out in the world, freed from the restrictions of a pandemic.

“The more we get back into the physical show, the more we feel that we’re going back to our physique, our kind of human soul, that kind of visceral instinct,” says Brown.

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