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This September, the Metropolitan Museum of Arts Costume Institute will open its ambitious In America: A Lexicon of Fashion exhibition. For a faster Americana fix, try the Angelo Urrutias spring 2022 4SDesigns collection. Urrutia is an encyclopedia of fashion knowledge, and each outfit comes with an attachment so meticulous it could make even the mind of scholar James Joyce dizzy.
Urrutia has to annotate every work shirt, high tee, and short carpenter because her view of American style is one that is often overlooked by entrenched fashion power structures. When we met face to face at the former Ecce! restaurant at TriBeCa, a space he founded as a sort of mix-up club showroom, he explains how difficult it is to position his collection in the bustling and growing menswear market. The laziest term to apply is streetwear. I know it grew only as urban and something shunned in fashion, he wrote in a brief statement sent to the press and retailers. Taking her youth outfits in New York and making them with the finest materials with an obsessive attention to detail is the premise of her brand. It’s like Savile Row for men who hate suits and it’s a very specific market.
But maybe not for long. Urrutia found herself meditating on black for spring, a color she rarely used but was attracted to by her mourning. It is also the best color to show off a silhouette rather than an ornament. The material is rough cotton twill, nubbly tweed, perforated leather, and five-ounce denim. But in the black and .jpg images you can focus on the tailored front of his suit jacket and his gorgeous swinging back, the flat front shorts with draped back pockets, the short vest he designed with an inner band so it can be folded up for a breezy look somewhere between finishes. and evil.
Urrutia’s fair and wide eyes mean she can’t just focus on the draped black stuff, so there’s also a shock absorber 100% orange cotton, waterproof and primary color print inspired by the Olympic rings. The logo is inlaid into the knitwear in a doodle graphic inspired by Karl Kani and for those who really want to relax, it has a relief knit cardigan and shorts that highlight the brand name with tonal beads.
Her American fashion dream is also global. Her late grandmother, who hails from El Salvador, appears in photos printed on cargo jackets, and her Central American heritage is reflected in the jerga hoodies and abstract bird patterns used for knitting. The cavalry twill hut is made in Italy with the same fabric of a special Italian suit for $6,000; floral pattern and large buttons inspired by Hawaii. Delicious cardi-coat riff on Chanel; others take the traditional Turkish dolman sleeve. Who else cast such a wide net and returned with such a delicious treasure? That’s probably the best and most American thing about Urrutia’s endeavors: It defies simple description and is more beautiful for its blend of inspiration and ideas.
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