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Welcome to Year in Eater 2021, Eater’s annual ritual of praising the past 12 months through input from the city’s top food writers. For the last week of 2021, Eater NY will be posting daily questions about the New York City restaurant scene over the past year, with answers from those who know it best: Eater editors and friends of Eater. Now: Was there one restaurant in particular that you felt really stood up for your local community? How did they do that?
Mahira Rivers, food journalist: Honestly, Cuomo said it all: all restaurants are essential. Everyone who kept their restaurant going this year has really taken it a step further.
John deBary, beverage expert, co-founder of Restaurant Workers’ Community Foundation: Ursula, for providing a safe, queer space in an industry that is often not safe for LGBTQIA+ people. Ditto for KIT.
Ryan Sutton, chief food critic, Eater NY: I like to write as much as I can about my Hell’s Kitchen neighborhood, but I’m still blown away by what Hunky Dory and Claire Sprouse have done for Crown Heights and the larger restaurant community. There was a Cuban dance party. There were too many popups to count (Cambodian, Texan, Filipino). There were comedy shows. There was a shop. There were great cocktails and food. Hunky Dory felt like the paradigm of an honest neighborhood restaurant. I’m so sad it’s gone.
Talia Baiocchi, Editor-in-Chief, punching: Claire Sprouse and Hunky Dory have really been a bright spot for the past 20 months. Her idea of what a bar/restaurant can be for the community?Especially a struggling community has had a huge impact on the way bar owners think about the purpose of their spaces, how they interact with their employees, the environment and how (and why) they participate in local politics.
Note: Some answers have been edited for clarity and brevity.
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