How two Afghan fashion designers preserve the country’s heritage in their work

When the Taliban took over Afghanistan this month, it turned the lives of Afghans living inside and outside the country upside down.

Some had fled the country while others, watching from outside, were left wondering what would happen to their homeland once the dust settled.

Among them are Anjilla Seddeqi and Hosna Kohestani, two fashion designers who incorporate their heritage into their work.

Seddeqi was 7 years old when his family fled Afghanistan and the Taliban to Australia in 1989. Although he never returned, his thoughts remained on the country he left as a child.

I have heard great stories about Afghanistan,” Seddeqi . said National. “I want to come back one day with my two children.

Inspired by his own experiences as a child, Seddeqi studied international law before joining the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees to work with asylum seekers. After years of working as a human rights lawyer, she decided to reconnect with her Afghan heritage, turning to fashion as a platform to bring the colors and patterns of her culture to a wider audience.

“I am very passionate about refugees, given my background and experience, and it was my dream as a little girl to practice refugee law so that I can help them,” explains Seddeqi.

My designs are informed by my Afghan heritage and culture. I especially work with rich fabrics like brocade with gold threads and embroidered silk fabrics, as well as bright colors, as these are synonymous with Afghan celebrations and attire.

Highlighting Afghan culture is an important part of Seddeqi’s work, to counter what he feels is a narrow view of his country.

For far too long the narrative in the West has been that Afghanistan is constantly at war and in conflict. But Afghanistan and its people are more than that and we are not defined by relentless violence. We are proud, cultured and friendly people and that is what I want to highlight in my designs.

Blending traditional elements with a more western aesthetic, Seddeqi’s work speaks to women seeking clothing beyond standard fare, while helping to cement her own commitment to her country.

It gives me a sense of connection to my roots. There is much to be learned from our traditional Afghan dress, [they are] master class in blending color, pattern and texture.”

Khoestani also shares his culture with the wider world. With a shop in Dubai, its colorful designs are known for their traditional cuts, dazzling colors and rich gold embroidery. Her dress is often photographed with the beauty of the Hatta dam, because, as she said earlier, “reminds me of Afghanistan”.

However, with the return of the Taliban, both women have concerns for the future, especially for women in the country. Seddeqi remains unconvinced by assurances that there will be no violence or retaliation.

I think Afghans have a very good understanding of the Taliban having experienced firsthand the terror they inflicted on the population when they came to power in 1996. Most Afghan women are too afraid to leave their homes. In the end, women and children in Afghanistan will pay the highest price, Seddeqi said.

This view is shared by Kohestani. “This is really a difficult time for all of us Afghans.”

The embellishments and embroidery that are so prominent in the designs of the two women are from Afghanistan, providing an important source of income for the women who make them, and a degree of financial independence. Whether this can continue under the Taliban remains to be seen.

While the long-term effects could be detrimental to the work of both designers, Kohestani’s thoughts are with his country women.

“This will definitely affect me as an Afghan designer,” he said, “but now I care more about my country.”

Seddeqi is also worried that his rights have been lost. Unable to reach his suppliers, he worries not only for their livelihood but also their safety.

It has been very difficult to relate to them since the Taliban came to power. I will continue to explore the various contacts and ways to get in touch with them. My hope is that I can continue to work with them and support them during these dark times.”

To help raise awareness, as well as funding for UNCHR, Seddeqi is helping to sell Arezu dolls in Australia. Translating as “wish” from Dari, the most widely spoken language in Afghanistan, they are made from cloth discarded by Afghan refugees in India.

“They were created with love, hope and hope for a brighter future for Afghan women and children,” Seddeqi said.

He said he felt compelled to act.

As an Afghan woman living in the diaspora, it is my duty and calling to raise awareness about the plight of my sister in Afghanistan. I cannot rest in this position of privilege knowing how much they suffer.”

Updated: August 25, 2021, 04:42