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Last April, Sotheby’s New York held its highest-ever value design sale when the late DC doyenne Michelle Smith’s collection hit the auction block—earning a record $45 million. Now, Chicago-based Hindman Auctions is following up on an incredible collection of haute couture, designer clothing, and accessories from philanthropists.
On September 21, A Life in Couture: Michelle Smith Collection will present one of the most significant private collections of contemporary haute couture in recent history. Consisting of over 300 lots, this sale highlights outstanding work by Balenciaga, Dior, Ralph Rucci, J. Mendel, Emilio Pucci, Halston and Stephen Burrows.
Prior to his death late last year, Smith, a Washington, DC native and daughter of real estate mogul Robert H. Smith—the visionary who developed the “futuristic” Crystal City neighborhood—not only chaired his family’s foundation, but served on its board of directors. organizations such as the Smithsonian American Art Museum, the Whitney Museum of Art, the Kennedy Center, and the National Gallery of Art.
“Michelle Smith surrounds herself with carefully selected and significant artwork, and her outfits are no exception,” said Timothy Long, Director of Couture & Luxury Accessories. “His intentional and deliberate choice is reflected not only in his contemporary fashion collections, but also in the preservation of clothing related to important moments in his life, since the 1960s.”
The work of four different creative directors who worked at the House of Dior, from 1979 to 2019, is reflected in the collection, starting with the haute couture Smith wedding gown designed by Marc Bohan. The white nylon net silk embroidered gown, with a scalloped neckline and organza skirt (about $500-$700), closely resembles the dress Bohan designed for Princess Caroline of Monaco for her 1978 wedding to Philippe Junot. Reportedly—days before the royal wedding—details of the dress leaked to the press, prompting Bohan to immediately make modifications to the design. The Smith version, worn the following year, likely incorporates many of the original details for the previous model.
Other works from Dior’s workshop include wool and crepe haute couture displays from the time of John Galliano (estimated $1,000-$2,000), and ensembles produced under Bill Gaytten and Raf Simons (estimated $600-$800). Seminal looks created under the supervision of current creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri include a haute couture “domino” patterned wool coat (approx. $4,000-$6,000) from spring/summer 2018, and a two-piece black palazzo taffeta trouser ensemble (est. $500- $700) from spring 2019, inspired by the famous Bar suit from Dior’s 1947 New Look collection.
More than a dozen intricate and visually sophisticated jackets and tops by Ralph Rucci—dating from circa 2008 to 2014—bear the Smith aesthetic during this period. From hand-woven leather jackets (approximately $2,000-$4,000) and two-piece silk with patterned tops (approximately $600-$800) to paisley coats with Mongolian fleece trim (approx. $1,000-$2,000), each piece is a technical masterpiece from the hands of previous Rucci studios. “It’s a technical and conceptual marvel,” Long said of the ostrich fleece jacket. “Both organic and highly structured, the jacket is a prime example of why he became the second American to be invited to attend Haute Couture.”
Plus, luxury custom fleece options from J. Mendel and fifth-generation creative director Gilles Mendel—ideal for winters on the East Coast—including the Barguzine sable stroller coat (approx. $5,000), and a natural scan-glow mink vest (approximately $1,000-$2,000).
“In addition to promoting and supporting art, he has, over the years, worked closely with contemporary designers to create the largest private collection of contemporary haute couture I have ever seen in my career as a fashion historian,” added Long. “He also collects historical clothing, which demonstrates his knowledge of history and the importance of fashion in the modern world.”
Previously, Hindman had auctioned off the wardrobes of Academy Award-winning actress Olivia de Havilland, cult Valentino Adele Bergreen, socialite and former model Betsy Pickering Kaiser, and the Ebony Fashion Fair, among others. Preview for upcoming sales by appointment only.
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