Hodakova 2022 Spring Ready Collection

There’s a touch of Camelot (as in King Arthur, not Kennedys) in sweeping regal robes, neck ruffs and leather corsets that Ellen Hodakova Larsson, an emerging Swedish designer, includes in her latest collection, which she digitally demonstrated in Paris. This medieval fairytale atmosphere is heightened by the collection’s film location, the trompe loeil interior of the 18th-century Sultan’s Copper Tent in Stockholms Haga Park.

The designer said he envisioned a dinner show in a castle where nobles asked for entertainment; the models and clothes they wear each have their own characteristics. The whole concept, he explained, is looking back at history and also bringing it forward, because I think that’s what gives us some authenticity today.

In the world of Larssons, authenticity is tactile, imperfect, and has a purpose: Everything is made from scrap or inanimate materials that offer a roadmap to their reincarnation and an alternative for the conscious consumer. I’m very direct, when I design it feels like diving into how old construction was and just trying to highlight all the existing crafts, explains the designer, who hopes to make a lot of changes in the industry. in the same way he can turn thrift store finds into treasure. These include vintage gloves that have been strung into miniskirts and bustiers that Larsson describes as surrealism in their direct message. Even more political are the pieces made of woven belts, including the hard-edged flap bags, which speak of consumerism and overproduction. However, the designer says he wants things to be fun and let viewers unravel, or perhaps let go of, the meaning of these particular pieces, some of which are one-off.

And there are bits and pieces, especially customized ones, to make a headache. Deconstruction has been a hallmark of Hodakova’s line since Larsson launched it a year ago, and this collection features a tight-fitting, open-stitched blazer that has a great New Look elegance. Hybrid pants/skirts abound, and the sleeves and pant legs are reused, as are the tops of men’s shoes, which, laid flat, look like butterfly wings on the top of the bustier. Also roomy is a cobweb dress made of hand-buttoned strands of various vintages.