Details of the Canali x 8on8 Collaboration Collection and Interview

There must be something in the water. Or maybe they slipped it into Negronis. After all, some of Italy’s most respected brands have caught the collaboration bug in a big way, and even when—in fact, specifically when — the brand they chose to work with seemed a little off the left field at first, the results were impressive. NS the latest entry in the canon is from Canali, a specialty clothing powerhouse that has been making incredible suits since 1934, and the 8on8 label of rising Chinese designer Li Gong.

The capsule collection, inspired by Marco Polo’s journey from Venice to Shangdu during the Yuan Dynasty, is a blend of Canali’s tailoring expertise with 8on8’s contemporary and youthful perspectives. Put it in more concrete terms, which translates to pieces like an oversized (but still proportionate) double-breasted blazer paired with a piped silk shirt. Or a sweater featuring a new version of the Cafra Cat Canali character worn with the kind of baggy louche pants that feel right for the moment in menswear. Think of it as a collaboration we didn’t know we needed—until the people behind it were kind enough to give it to us.

We met with those people—Canali CEO and President Stefano Canali, and Li Gong of 8on8—to talk about how it came to be, the future of tailored clothing, and how fashion can serve as a bridge between cultures.

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To begin with, how did this collaboration come about?

Stefano Canali: Li Gong was chosen for this collaboration because we felt it was original and relevant at the same time. We consider that a key element in its design for the 8on8 will bring contemporary updates and new perspectives to Canali, while staying true to our DNA. As we worked through the many Zoom meetings to design the collection, it became clear that we had chosen the right partner. Li Gong explores our world and brings new life to Canali’s design archives with his creative interpretations of artwork and contemporary silhouettes.

Li Gong: I first got to know Canali when I was studying menswear fashion. The house’s rich history and passion for innovation and culture have always stuck with me, which is why I love being approached by Canali for collaborations. Having always associated Canali with tailor-made Italian luxury, I welcome the opportunity to blend my perspective with the classic aesthetic of the house to create the perfect blend of the two brands.

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How did you get inspired by Marco Polo and his travels?

LG: When I started working on Canali Travels with the 8on8 capsule collection, my interest in Marco Polo’s journey from Italy to Shangdu in China continued to grow. I was inspired by the connection between Marco Polo’s path, historical motifs from the Canali archives and 8on8’s signature elements. This resulted in the incorporation of Cafra Paint, a design used by Canali in the ’50s, and other forms such as shooting stars. References to Marco Polo are also seen in the earth tone color palette and use of materials including silk and wool.

How important does collaboration feel to Canali now, and moving into the future?

SC: This collection is our first capsule, which makes it so special. Our brand has always celebrated innovation and culture and it is important for us to be able to continue and build further on this path by broadening our horizons. As we look to the future, our hope is that we will continue to explore partnerships with new brands and artists while remaining rooted in our core values: quality, craftsmanship and excellence.

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Li Gong, you mentioned interpreting fine sewing from a contemporary perspective in the press release. What does that mean for you, exactly?

LG: To me, this means that the collection offers Canali customers the opportunity to wear clothes that embrace their modern lifestyle without compromising on the fit and integrity behind the brand’s signature tailoring. We achieve this by changing small details like the shape of the collar or the width of the trouser leg.

What do you see as the role of customized clothing in 2021 and beyond?

SC: For more than 85 years, Canali has been at the forefront of the world of menswear, and we believe that sewing will continue to be present in menswear for years to come. However, we are driven by innovation and look forward to continuing to explore ways in which our heritage designs and fashion apparel can meet the needs of modern customers.

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How do you think fashion can serve as a bridge between cultures?

LG: Fashion offers endless opportunities to celebrate culture, whether it’s using fabrics, clothing, or certain design elements that bring attention to the rich history of culture. To me, this is shown in the beading detail of a baseball cap, inspired by the hat of a Yuan Dynasty official, and a drawstring bag inspired by an ancient money bag.

SC: There are many ways to interpret the function of fashion in crossing cultural barriers. We hope we can continue to lend our expertise in craftsmanship and quality to new designers around the world to create beautifully constructed garments. But we also hope to learn from our partners, from their culture, expertise and the way they see the world.

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