Coterie Couture: Rave fashion embraces individualism through bold eclectic styles

What a person wears speaks volumes about who they are as a person, and the same can be said for styles associated with various movements and cultures. As a cyclical art form, fashion – and the politics attached to it – almost always reappears from the past. Follow columnist Natalie Brown on “Coterie Couture” as she chronologically explores the impact of different subcultures and corresponding fashions each week.

A subculture rooted in fun and inclusivity is all the rage these days.

From the 90s to the present day, the rave scene has dominated the festival hall. Charged with elements of psychedelia and rock music, cultural journalist Nelson CJ says the original rave scene was defined by the various drugs circulated, loud EDM music. and lights flash in all directions. This space is meant to evoke a sense of worldliness, giving participants an out of body experience.

“(Going to the rave) is not like going to the club,” said CJ. “This is a place where you should really go wild, have as much fun as you can and really just drift away from whatever’s going on.”

This fantastical sentiment is echoed by the original demographics of the rave scene — queers, Blacks, and other marginalized groups who can find a safe haven from mainstream discriminatory political rules in rave culture, he said. As a result of this suppression, raves were often held illegally in empty warehouses and other open spaces, encouraging ideas of liberation and freedom from rules and conventions.

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The individualism of space is reflected in rave culture music as well, mainly through the strong bond between EDM and raves. EDM covers many different genres — such as house and dubstep — but can be broadly defined by synthesizer-driven beats and a percussion focus, says Thomas Hanslowe, former teaching assistant Musicology 8: “History of Electronic Dance Music.” These electronic beats are the soundtrack to the ’90s rave scene, he says, where the ravers and the music they listen to are called into question.

During those early scenes, rave culture and its associated imagery never really go away, says Hanslowe. Instead, it has turned into a mega culture of loyal EDM listeners and free spirits, transcending its original underground roots. However, in this transformation, the culture inevitably loses some of its original vibrancy and excitement, he said.

“There’s been an interesting move from raves – something that is actively illegal so you have to do all these complicated things to avoid getting caught by the police – to Coachella and (another big festival) who (have) managed to take the energy from this rave reviews and turn it into something legal and profitable,” said Hanslowe.

In modern spaces like these major festivals, elements of fashion and rave culture begin to mingle. On the fashion front, rave culture can be defined by combinations of imaginative and free-spirited clothing that you probably wouldn’t wear anywhere else than a rave, says Vinnie Rossiello, marketing manager for Rave Wonderland. Drawing from the areas of pop culture and animated entertainment and pairing bold patterns with solid neutrals, ravers outfit combinations are very diverse, he says.

While the fashion rave does have an oddly psychedelic quality, its novelty-inspired pieces have managed to cross over into the mainstream fashion industry, says Rossiello. The harness, which has its roots in circuit parties and the rave community, has become a popular item on the red carpet. These pieces were worn by celebrities ranging from Madonna, who is often seen sporting a leather strap, to Adam Rippon, who wore a suit inspired by Jeremy Scott’s armor to the 2018 Oscars. Rossiello said the popularization of baggy style JNCO jeans was also inspired by the rave scene of the year. The 90s, in addition to the creative and colorful braiding techniques seen in celebrities like Lady Gaga and Nicki Minaj.

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A rave cut is typically a form of self-expression, communicating the individual’s liberation from societal conventions, Rossiello says. But more importantly, rave fashion is a means to protest this convention at its roots, making the revival of those thematic elements particularly relevant given the current political climate. By wearing a variety of mismatched patterns and colorful pieces of clothing, ravers show their disregard for convention and follow the norm.

“Rave has always been a very subtle way of protesting or making a statement, and there is no denying that the last decade, if not more, has been very controversial,” Rossiello said. “There are many different reasons people feel the need to speak up or express themselves, and fashion just reminds people of that statement.”

A strengthened desire to express oneself is a product of the pandemic, but the shift towards a post-COVID-19 world has only positive connotations for the future of rave culture. Rossiello said because of the pandemic, society now has a desire to embrace every moment that comes and live life to the fullest – an opinion that is not necessarily widespread. before. There’s also a great sense of nostalgia associated with the genre that, when combined with the suffering of the pandemic, makes people even more excited to have a fulfilling life experience, says CJ.

“(The pandemic) has people hiding in their homes for months – several years,” CJ said. “Such an environment always makes people excited to party, wanting to gather in certain spaces and explore different ways to express joy. Culture (Rave) really provides a (perfect) outlet (for this).