On Tonight’s Louis Vuitton Show, Unbeatable Memorial to Virgil

Fashion shows, as a rule, begin with hums of excitement, anticipation. Not so at the Louis Vuitton presentation in Miami tonight. Just this week, the maison announced the passing of respected and respected male creative director Virgil Abloh following a personal battle with cancer. Where the vanguard so often whispers and selfies, hissing stops, church hands clasped in laps, far fewer smartphones than usual hovering in the air. While this fashion show doesn’t have a funeral tenor (and it does), it sure feels like a farewell. It also felt too early, as Abloh, a 41-year-old trailblazer, would not appear at the mouth of the runway at the end of the show.

‘Gone too soon’ feels like an outdated cliché, although when applied to Abloh’s relatively short but remarkable tenure at one of the world’s oldest fashion houses – indeed, when applied to this collection – it’s hard not to wonder what could have happened. happened, and should, come after this Miami presentation. The outfit is a testament to this sense of stolen promise. A see-through, eye-catching track jacket with a house monogram sits on a matching sweatshirt. The Chalet girl earmuffs are cartoonish, as is the steroid-taking bear trapper. The frenetic palette runs the gamut of blood reds, acid greens, whites, jet blacks, blues, grays, hot pinks and brick browns. It’s hard to close a collection like this, or tie a bow around it; it’s a refreshing Ablohian trait.

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Subjectivity aside, that makes this very interesting. Abloh, who has always looked at fashion and culture through a childish kaleidoscope, was one of his group to first turn around the old European-centric notion of luxury. This is not muted clothing, peeled back for whispering riches; it’s a statement, grailwear, design that stands out aspirational part of luxury fashion with the brightest and lightest ink. Under Abloh’s control, Vuitton has never shouted louder, and the kids (and all of us) have never wanted it louder. But instead of frenzy, the result was a sold-out concert full of major acts. Tonight’s show is no exception.

In addition, there is frenzied hype for the Vuitton legacy. The tailored cut plays host to gorgeous mountain views, and the ombre leather, big enough to fit an iPhone and Juul (or, conversely, big enough to fit an entire RCF speaker), melts from primary to briefcase neutral. There’s no gray here, and, like the various carousels on display, it works. All of them wholeheartedly adhere to Abloh’s proud and cherished doctrine of making clothes that excite one.

Because, even though Abloh treated his work with the utmost respect, he always approached it with a childlike impolite attitude. In this magical forest on the Miami coast, like the rainbow trail from his debut show for Vuitton, anything could theoretically develop. But the designer has taken his vision beyond any pre-existing runway fantasy. It’s a reality for a lot of people now: soccer shirts over crinolines don’t sound too far-fetched these days.

At the end of the show, Abloh’s team gathered; silent stand-ins for their late captain. His words echoed as the heart of a blood-red hot air balloon shot into the flames: “There are no limits. Life is very short.” As the fireworks started exploding, most of the silent onlookers stood to gaze up, some capturing the spectacle on smartphones. Against this backdrop, on the screens of people outside Florida, the words ‘Virgil is here’ appear in neat and elegant cursive. He must have been here while we were watching at home, and there in Miami. In Louis Vuitton, and in Off-White, and on the less traveled roads that are now easier to walk to Abloh’s pioneering, he will forever be here too.

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