What to Expect From Men’s Fall 2022

But, also: What does Zegna’s IPO mean for Thom Browne’s brand? Browne was the mom on Zoom’s recent call about its pre-fall, although it seems the business on Browne-iverse continues to boom. Let that be a sign to all the menswear designers out there: The single point of view pays off in the end.

How Will Menswear Meta Be?

In December, JW Anderson announced an avatar scheme for his menswear show—we’ll find out later this week—but with all the buzz about the NFT, metaverse, and virtual fashion coming in late 2021, one wonders if menswear other labels think digitally like Anderson. Live streams, videos, and lookbooks seem like the main means of communication this season—but that doesn’t mean fashion is rejecting meta-fashion. Digital concepts take longer to execute, so we will continue to monitor virtual experiments as the womenswear season kicks off next month.

Are Americans Taking Over the European Menswear Show?

A quick glance at the Milan and Paris menswear schedules will reveal a plethora of American designers — saying nothing about the way European brands have adopted the laid-back and convincing style of American men. Matthew Williams moved Alyx to Milan a few years ago, but on Friday January 14 at 8 p.m. CET, the brand will be holding its first runway show in Italy, showcasing the square-shaped shoes and clunky boots that Williams has been making on Instagram all week. (Fans have gone wild.) Alyx Williams will join Queens native 4SDesigns Angelo Urrutia in Milan, who held an off-schedule appointment. Urrutia is teaming up with Italian breweries and manufacturers on the development of this invisible fabric on this side of couture—a real menswear head should check out her new tweed for fall.

In Paris, Rhude and Airei carried American coats as Amiri postponed her show at a later date, while Joey Gollish from Canada from Mr. Saturday and Jil Sander’s Luke Meier will hit the Paris runway on the 21st. There’s also Rick Owens, a longtime American in Paris, who will put on a small live show on the 20th.

How Do You Say Goodbye to Icons?

No one can replace Virgil Abloh. A creative person who is generous and kind, he is ready to collaborate and discuss with anyone who comes to ask. The Louis Vuitton show on January 20 was being worked on by Abloh before his death. Even with the COVID precautions, we anticipate that many of his friends and collaborators will show up in Paris to honor his legacy and work. Brain Dead’s Tremaine Emory tweeted “Virgil’s Plan” earlier this week, alluding to the idea that Abloh has been doing some legacy planning for Vuitton’s next chapter. Whatever happens on the runway on Thursday, here’s a guarantee: There will be no dry eye in sight.

How Did Nigo Rethink Kenzo?

Nigo will be Kenzo’s first Japanese designer since Kenzo Takada himself. The collection debuts on January 23 at 11 a.m. CET will likely combine the signature Nigo traits we all know, from graphic patterns to airy silhouettes, with updates to Takada’s festive and elegant ready-to-wear. When he was appointed to the role, Nigo said, “Kenzo-san’s approach to creating originality is through his understanding of many different cultures. This is also the core of my own philosophy of creativity. Inheriting Kenzo san’s passion for craftsmanship to create a new Kenzo is the biggest challenge in my 30 year career, which I want to achieve together with the team.”

Final Question: How Important Is Men’s Fashion Week in Ye-lenciaga’s World?

Men’s fashion week has long been the less crowded, more experimental sibling to the women’s ready-to-wear season, although Ye and Demna’s relationship and Gap collaboration challenged that runway paradigm entirely. When all eyes—and fingers click to buy—of a new generation of menswear shoppers looking to Ye’s daily date night with Julia Fox for style inspiration, how important is runway show? Men’s style has always come from the streets, and few understand this better than Ye and Demna who refract wearable and utility-driven menswear back to their customers through real-life experiences. With a smaller celebrity presence on the show thanks to Omicron, Ye-lenciaga’s model just got stronger.

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