Men’s Fashion Week Summary | Night Standard

The month of menswear is over, and the designers have brought out the best for boys to wear this coming winter.

As usual, the outfit also comes with a meme-worthy fashion week moment. There’s drama in Milan thanks to Prada’s A-list actor set: Kyle MacLachlan opened the show, Jeff Goldblum sauntered down the runway to close, and rising stars Asa Butterfield and Filippo Scotti were seen in the mix.

In Dolce & Gabbana, newly engaged Machine Gun Kelly is the final act. Kim Jones shows off his Dior collection on a life-size model of the golden Pont Alexandre III bridge. JW Anderson made the lamé football kits and pigeon grips Instagram enjoyed, while the crowd sat celebrating at Louis Vuitton as the late creative director Virgil Abloh’s final act was extinguished.

Gender-only shows now feel a bit old-fashioned – Men’s London Fashion Week was canceled, and merged for the bumper LFW in mid-February – but shows in Milan and Paris this month found a way to make it work. Y/Project, Ami and Alyx all combined women’s clothing on their runways, while Acne Studios created a men’s lookbook entirely on female models. “It’s about looking beyond gender,” says Acne creative director Jonny Johansson. “For me, the purpose of owning a brand is to think about the possibilities, and push forward.” Boys (girls, everyone), here’s the trend that will rock next season.

Crazy for belts

The pleated belt is no longer tied to the black tie. Erdem, who debuted his menswear line with the London-shot lookbook, sets the tone by making it moss green over matching pants, or walnut yellow with a cable knit jumper and bucket hat. “[They] comes from my AW20 womenswear collection,” said the British designer. “I like the contrast of something formal like a belt, but do it in an informal way – with corduroy or tweedy herringbone.” Paired with white Mary Janes, they are charming. Acne Studios makes them disco, covered in sequin-style discs and sporting a loose-fitting cobalt shirt, while Etro borrows a waist-hugging but knitted zip-up silhouette – perfect with trekking pants and a red velvet dinner jacket. They are the season’s most versatile staple food.

pop polo neck

Fold in a boring black turtle neck, and pack some punch with your polo: the skin-tight patterned top is a pizzazz choice. For her show debut in Paris, London-based designer Bianca Saunders offered a curved chain print on a white jersey and trousers. Naomi Campbell threw a party afterward to celebrate. Bluemarble, the self-proclaimed “trippy” French house, lives up to expectations with a series of sour floral pattern tops. “They are part of the sailor outfit we revisit this collection,” says founder Anthony Alvarez. “Usually these shirts are more uncoloured, but I wanted them to be bright and colorful with this print.” Most notably, however, is at Y/Project, where creative director Glenn Martens has free reign over Jean Paul Gaultier’s trompe l’oeil pattern archive. That means the hard abs printed in pink look as good as they did in the nineties. Gyms? Forget it.

King of blankets

Your rustic coat won’t cut it next winter; 2022 will be the year quilting goes crazy. JORDANLUCA, the London-based brand by Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto, makes it their mission to give textiles a new edge. Results? Diamond-lined flared pants squeeze the thighs with a slim cropped jacket. “Quilts are difficult to work with, so the concepts and silhouettes are challenging,” says Bowen. Staying sexy is the key. “We wanted to embrace the filthy, dirty glory of London. Fight hard or go home!” At Dior Men’s, Kim Jones is the opposite; a Paris patent coat that is crisp, clean and stitched like a Lady Dior bag. Industry veteran Dsquared2 opted for chic pedestrian vests and robes, while Portuguese newcomer David Catalán made Quilt jacket in classic cut in electric tones, completed with a matching crown perched on the head.Long live the quilt!

Baby Balaclava

They’ve been lurking for a long time, but now it’s official: the balaclava explodes. Always one step ahead, Virgil Abloh made them suit-style morphs last season, and for last week’s posthumous Louis Vuitton collection, new versions came in stream: knit with ears, printed with Courbet painting or LV monogram. You name it, they come with a small hole for your head. At the ultra-chic Ernest W Baker, the Portuguese brand championing the ‘grandfather of sportsmen’ by design duo Reid Baker and Inês Amorim, the balaclava shortens outfits with polish. “I grew up in Utah and balaclava is a staple in my wardrobe whenever I go out in the winter,” Baker says. “We enjoy pushing our performances as far as possible while still feeling smooth.” Think a red and black jacquard rose pattern, or a creamy white with a soft cardigan scarf combo. Sunglasses, mandatory.

fake sister

False fur forever. This year’s It coat comes with a large collar, cuts at the waist, and exudes metropolitan luxury. AMI led the troupe, where creative director Alexandre Mattiussi saw the Paris metro ‘urban ballet’. Cut to model Alton Mason stepped forward in a coal black faux fur, black tuxedo and sheer heart print shirt. “This is how I imagined this classic Paris, this elevated reality,” says the designer. London grunge originates from JORDANLUCA, where luscious faux tawny is paired with greasy dyed hair, while burgeoning French house EGONLAB closes the show with a shaggy full length coat, cocoon, big collar. “The ‘big fur coat’ belongs to the fantasy world,” says one of the designers Florentin Glémarec. “They are a shell of glamor and temporary, provocative desire.” Register us.

Cut sweaters

How to stay warm but flaunt your pearls? Get acquainted with a sliced ​​sweater. At Fendi, the knitwear is oversized with a triangular cut to frame the O’Lock necklace over the meat. A small but similar cut was done on Neil Barrett, where the pullover was plain and purple. But leave it to JW Anderson London himself to really cut the mustard. There, revealing the colorful links that make up the entire front of the jumper. “We have a special knit with an interlocking chain that is machined, then padded and opened to the chest,” he says. “This collection is about interlocking, twisting, and turning. Things we sometimes think of as kitsch, and kind of let go in the process.” It’s time to stop overthinking: have fun with that sweater.