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And just like that, the others Menswear seasons have come and gone, although this time it feels much shorter. With London canceling their men’s shows due to the surge in Omicron and big brands pulling out of the Pitti Uomo in Florence, we only have Milan and Paris collections to follow. But emerging brands are trying to make the most of these challenging times and there is more than enough fashion to enjoy.
When it comes to Autumn, menswear tends to focus most of its efforts on solid, tailor-made outerwear. For the same reason, the Fall collection runs the risk of feeling a little more conservative and classic, two things that most of us kind of get tired of seeing.
Luckily, pants have gotten wider than ever, shoulders have become more prominent, shearling and puffer jackets underwent some serious fashion renovations and overall menswear seems to have caught up and is finally having fun. Ahead, discover the 17 biggest men of the season trend for Fall 2022.
Tailored suits have gone through a lot over the last few seasons. Some designers are intent on blowing it up for anything too big — think Rick Owens, Raf Simons, and Demna at Balenciaga — while others, like Thom Browne, have made slimming proportions their hallmark. For Fall 2022, the sewing experiments continue, and this time the focus is on everything small things. Shrink collars and minimized sewing details have been seen in 4S Design, Egonlab, Louis Vuitton, Lowe, Bianca Saunders, Like Boys Man Plus, Rick Owens, and Yohji Yamamoto.
On the topic of sewing, while over the past few seasons the focus has been on loosening cut and fit—which some have seen as a side effect of the pandemic—this season there’s been a notable interest in fit and fit. body, which hints at the next evolution of sewing. While hourglass jackets are a hallmark of Balenciaga, this season we saw several brands tackling their own versions of the contoured torso. Look at the inward curve at the waist of the jacket Dior, Louis Vuitton, Prada, GmbH, and Clothes.
The most visible continuous shift in menswear across the board continues to be the exaggerated shoulders. Designers across the board have experimented with exactly how far they can push our shoulders out, and the results have varied from hilariously big (almost worthy of a midfielder) to sharp and edgy. Look Hed Mayner, Casablanca, Ernest W. Baker, Rick Owens, alyx and Dolce Gabbana.
Menswear that embraces the femme aesthetic and tropes of style continues, with skirts, crop tops, and dresses on offer more and more. Mary Janes, the popular schoolboy shoes, have also left their mark on the menswear runways this season. On JW Anderson, Jonathan Anderson introduces the bold, kindergarten-inspired Mary Janes, Virtue and Fendi both propose a more classic alternative (with the latter incorporating a band into them), Like Boys Man Plus features a thicker sole version, an edgier double strap and Hed Mayner showing a more relaxed and attractive sandal-like interpretation.
It’s no secret to anyone that the pants have gotten wider over the last few seasons. Y2K aesthetics take over fashion and Gen Z vs. Millennials/skinny-or-flared jeans are partly to blame, with casual tailoring and the oversized fit trend taking up the rest. Fall Fall 2022, di B+ Umit Benan, Rolf Ekroth, A-Cold-Wall, Y/Project and Dries Van Noten, pants width and volume have reached new limits.
Tights, black pants, slouchy boxers, well-striped boxers — this season’s panties are sure to have a moment. For Fall 2022, we see an open boxer peeking from behind his belt at Glenn Marten’s Y/Project, Virgil’s Louis Vuitton, MSGM, Alled-Martinez, and Kim Jones Dior (honorable title goes to Prada, which shows two looks with visible belts that turn out to be just panties).
The exposed boxers came from prisons, where prisoners would wear loose pants because they would not be given belts. In fashion, they have a history rooted in ’90s Black and Hip-Hop culture, when branded belts became a symbol of style and another way of flexing buzzy brands like Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, and Polo. With the ’90s and early 2000s aesthetic returning to fashion over the last few seasons, it’s only a matter of time before the exposed boxer does too.
Since menswear embraces traditional women’s styles, we have seen many pieces migrate from women’s runways to menswear. The most recurring ones are the skirts: pleated, mini, tulle, crinoline, you name it and we’ve probably seen them on menswear shows over the last few seasons.
For this coming Fall, style proposals seem to be everywhere: skirts over pants. We’ve seen this before on Thom Browne, and this season it’s coming to Louis Vuitton, EGONlab., Confidential, and Steven Passaro. Honorable mention also for this trend’s less adventurous cousins: pants over pants (seen in Kiko Kostadinov, Prada and Yohji Yamamoto).
Vintage and second hand have taken over fashion and street style in recent years. There’s nothing cooler today than wearing an iconic designer archive (Rihanna knows a thing or two about that), and few things are more rewarding than finding a worn-out item at your favorite thrift store. For this coming fall, fashion wants to perfectly emulate the feeling of aged sweaters through their precious knit remixes. We see the patchwork in Zegna and missoni, sad in Studies and Etro, and false fixes on OAMC.
If you like ripping and repairing knitwear but are looking for something a little more daring, fear not! Some of today’s more innovative and novelty-oriented designers have you covered. While some may find these pieces confusing and unapproachable, we just found them cold. With knitted crumpled in Rick Owens, Y/Project, and JW Anderson, you will be comfortable and fashionable. What more could you ask for?
Fashion loves the hobbies of the rich as a source of inspiration, especially winter sports (you can’t blame them, nothing sounds cooler than after skiing). Last Fall, we saw an endless amount of quilting come alive on puffer jackets for men and ski wear for women (shout out to Miu Miu), and it looks like for this Fall the quilting obsession continues. Diamond quilting in particular has become a recurring motif seen in 4S Design, Ernest W. Baker, Egonlab, dsquared2, Jun.J, and Dries Van Noten.
Speaking of winter stuff, puffer jackets are always great for Fall, but this season, designers decided to go bigger and bolder. Some might call it warcore, others may be inclined to go deeper and talk about how this stems from the need for cocoons and protection during a pandemic, but the simple fact is that it just is it right cold out there. If you’ve always wanted a Norma Kamali sleeping bag coat but never got one, maybe one of these could be your solution: alyx, EGONlab, Y/Project, Rick Owens (twice), or Dolce Gabbana.
A few pieces of outerwear are better for winter than a delicious shearling jacket. This season, the iconic piece emerged from the shadows to become a simple men’s wardrobe staple to become a major character on the runway. Some of them will make you look like your grandfather or feel like you’re about to fly a plane in WW2, but others like Jonathan Anderson and Glenn Martens will make you think twice about calling shearling jackets boring. Look Which, JW Anderson, Y/Project, Lowe, Sacai, and Kenzo.
Even though the industry is getting closer and closer to becoming fur free, it still seems to have a strong attachment to its appearance. While shearling has always been popular for fall, this season’s brand is looking at long-haired sheepskin and faux fur specifically to mimic the aesthetic. While some brands such as Prada, GmbH, and alyx, focus on trim, others like Dries Van Noten, Dolce Gabbana, Lowe, and rhude go all out with a full coat. Which and EGONlab. do both.
It seems like these days there’s always been a shiny new aesthetic and another word worthy of the “-core” suffix. And while Kidcore, which basically means dressing like a kid (think tie-dye, cartoon t-shirts, mismatched prints and bright colors, and cute necklaces) has been trending for a few years now, it’s the season where we really saw it come to life on the menswear runway. After all, in these dark times we live in, why not put your arm around your inner child and have some real fun in your outfits?
Arguably a side effect of wearing masks caused by the pandemic, balaclavas have been all over TikTok and Instagram and are now making their way into IRL mode via the runways. The reality is that the pandemic has actually made us more adventurous with fashion, and since we already cover half of our faces, why not go the extra mile. We took a look a few last fall for women’s clothing, the most memorable on Miu Miu, so it makes sense that we now see it on men’s shows.
For Fall 2021 we’re seeing a lot of “out” outfits hitting the runway. In hindsight, that might be a little too optimistic, although it looks like we’re ready to give it another try this season as Sequin has hit more than a few collections. Pimple, JW Anderson, and Dries Van Noten take a more relaxed and fun approach, while EGONlab., Dolce Gabbana, blue marble work them into sewing them.
College college and letterman jackets have been making a comeback over the past few seasons. If you look at the street-style images from the Milan and Paris shows from the past two weeks, you’ll see endless iterations of the bomber jacket with patches and varsity lettering motifs. Perhaps today’s love of menswear for university is driven by nostalgia — dedicated to those who is it right love high school — or maybe it’s just another layer on menswear’s desire to subvert the style symbols associated with masculinity. After all, we saw them in Kenzo, Louis Vuitton, Opening ceremony, and Confidential.
Photo courtesy of brand
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