Dior celebrates couture craftsmanship, much to Delevingne’s dismay

PARIS (AP) – The studio – the hand workshop – took the center stage of Dior on Monday for an enhanced show on the first day of Paris couture week, which aims to enhance the work of tailors behind the scenes of the home.

Stars flocked to the Musee Rodin venue, including actress Rosamund Pike and “The Crown” star Claire Foy, who posed for the camera, exclaiming: “This is beautiful. I am impressed.”

Another VIP in attendance, model and actress Cara Delevingne, was criticized for not wearing a mask.

Here are some highlights from Monday’s spring-summer 2022 couture collection:

DIOR CELEBRATES HIS CRAFTS

Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri wanted to show how the craft of “mother petites” tailors, some of whom have worked at Dior studios for decades, is as important as art or fashion itself.

This Muse is a stepping stone to a typical luxurious couture look.

An example is the white beaded tapestry embroidery that adorns a structured ecru wool twill coat. More than ornament here, the slick embroidery really creates the silhouette of the garment through the sheer weight and swag.

Elsewhere, a high-waisted gray gray crepe skirt makes the same statement: It seems almost alive thanks to the many long, rustling and fluttering embroidery on the fairy-like model.

Speaking through clothes, Chiuri seemed to be saying: Arts and crafts are one and the same.

Embroidered tights are also a big theme for spring, with an army of Dior tailors having worked to embellish some of the statement pieces. Unfortunately the sheer weight of paillette embroidery doesn’t always cut the best shape on some tights, all well executed.

In terms of style, there are hints of the ’60s trending, with features like the Peter Pan collar popping up on a sensuous sheer organza blouse, or the fitted Bar silhouette tuxedo suit with the bold black satin collar of menswear.

MASKLESS HOW TO DELEVINGNE AT DIOR

Strict measures have been put in place at Paris Fashion Week to comply with French government guidelines amid a spike in new infections driven by omicron.

COVID-19, which has brought the fashion industry to its knees, has seen countless cancellations, even ending entire seasons, and fashion shows are only staged again on condition that guests show proof of vaccination and wear face masks while sitting down. It’s the same rule for everyone whether celebrity or journalist. France currently registers the highest daily coronavirus cases in Europe.

Actress Rosumund Pike sets a good example by carefully wearing her face mask as soon as she sits down despite wearing an elaborate Dior couture headpiece. Nearby, “The Crown” star Claire Foy also wore a mask after a photo call.

Model and actress Cara Delevingne, however, turned her head for all the wrong reasons: Failed to put on a mask when she saw creations from the front row.

SCHIAPARELLI ASK FOR HIGHER POWER FOR ANSWER

Daniel Roseberry said of his couture collection that he wanted to respond to the “pervasive tiredness” and feeling of “luck” that the pandemic has given so many people.

Specifically, designer Schiaparelli asked himself on the drawing board how the house’s signature surreal motif—first embraced by the late, great Elsa Schiaparelli between the two World Wars—could be relevant in a world where reality itself is changing.

The answer? He ascended to heaven, channeling the celestial. It was, he said, a case of “a step towards the elements” of understanding chaos.

This couture collection thus becomes the realm of the high priestess of couture, who wears exaggerated round hats, wears gold, black and white, and floats with sparkles and glitter.

Gold jewelry — a custom-made shade in 24K leaves — floated around the model statue in all directions as if suspended by some supernatural force. The column silhouette rises into a spliced ​​white bodice that opens at the chest like a space age flower, or into a giant black diamond bejeweled bib.

Some silhouettes approach the pastiche, such as the spikes protruding from the model’s bust indistinctly.

But the meticulous construction of many of the dresses—one of which had golden tentacles spilling out like a jellyfish—certainly made up for it. The magnificent setting – Le Petit Palais – with various prints and sculptures also adds to the Greek drama.

GAULTIER REMEMBER TIERRY MUGLER

French fashion designer Thierry Mugler, whose theatrical designs were worn by celebrities such as Madonna, Lady Gaga and Cardi B, has died at the age of 73. An announcement on his official Instagram said he died Sunday.

A contemporary of Jean Paul Gaultier who admired his work, Mugler was known for his architectural style, defined by broad shoulders and small waist. Much has been said over the years about the tension between the two fashion greats, a rumor Gaultier says belongs to the past.

In Monday’s bittersweet message, Gaultier told The Associated Press that his old acquaintance had now “went to change the angels and demons there. The sky is the color.”

“What a talent,” he added. “Always seeking perfection with his unique style!”

AZZARO SHINE AND SHIMMERS

Olivier Theyskens brings out the romance in all of us. In Monday’s affair, designer Azzaro let go of the beads and sparkles and came out on his own in unapologetic couture.

The brand, whose razzmatazz sheen attracted stars including Brigitte Bardot and Sophia Loren in their heyday of the ’60s and ’70s, seems to have found the right ambassador at Theyskens.

The design is fluid in all senses of the word. First by means of a loose, shiny tuxedo dripping down the body. Second, to combine men’s and women’s clothing in an androgynous co-ed design.

The house’s iconic ’70s long gown was revamped, in one instance with a pared-down aesthetic and a bare neckline finished in a loop on the belly.

Minor details, such as sparkling beaded embroidery on the shoulders, stay brand true yet subtle.