Vogue Editors’ Favorite Collection of the Year

If I close my eyes and let images of all the fashion shows I’ve seen in 2022 surface, the one that stands out the most in my memory is Valentino’s haute couture, which was staged on Rome’s Spanish Steps. It was a complete coup and being Italian, I definitely love well staged skits, with a side of drama and glamour. Pierpaolo Piccioli delivered both in spades. What is remarkable is that he was able to master the incredible beauty of the site, making his collection so visually powerful, so powerful that the Spanish Steps are just a stunning frame, and not the center of attention. Not an easy task. For me, this event is for the book. Tiziana Cardini, Vogue Runway contributor

KidSuper, menswear spring 2023

One of the hottest debates in our business argument that may never be resolved is whether fashion should be considered an art form. Personally, after covering fashion and art, I think the answer is yes. But that answer begs another question should art be considered a form of fashion? After all, artists go in and out of fashion. And we hang and re-hang art on our walls in a way that’s not very dissimilar to the way we hang and re-hang clothes on our bodies. I loved Colm Dillane’s first live show in Paris for his KidSuper brand during menswear last June, because the show cleverly answered these questions in a way that had never been seen before on the runway. By framing the fashion show as an art auction, and simultaneously presenting her clothes with the art that incorporates them, Dillane provides plenty of funny food for thought. It also makes you consider why LVMH is reportedly interested in buying Galeri Gagosiana, a rumor that LVMH denies might not be so outlandish. Hopefully, the essence of a show whose finale was so good was captured in the review, so there’s no need to repeat it here. It’s a clever reinvention of the runway format that has you happily speculating on what Dillane will come up with next. Luke Leitch, Vogue Runway contributor

Renaissance Renaissance, spring 2023