The fashion industry is not doing enough to live up to its climate promises

ONLY SIX PERCENT clothing brands and retailers that have adopted so-called science-based climate targets account for all of their emissions according to the target to limit global warming to 1.5 Celsius, said an analysis done by Finnwatch.

Finland’s corporate responsibility watchdog reported last month that only 10 of the 182 companies it analyzed passed the most stringent screening, meaning their emission reduction goals were in line with the 1.5 degree target and included broad-based measures to reduce emissions across the value chain. .

When there is such a big shortage in the promise of the most progressive companies, it seems unlikely that emissions from the industry can fall fast enough, comment Leave Leipolaclimatologist at Finnwatch.

Solving the climate crisis requires that all emissions be reduced quickly and sincerely, he stressed.

Among the Finnish clothing manufacturers and retailers included in this study are Marimekko, Reima, Stockmann and Tokmanni.

The fashion and textile industry is estimated to cause 410 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions.

Most of the emissions are generated in production, a function that has been outsourced by many leading brands. The Science-Based Targets (SBT) Initiative provides considerable leeway with accounting for emissions, a fact companies often take advantage of, according to Finnwatch.

Those criteria could be met by committing to bring some subcontractors into the initiative instead of actually reducing emissions, for example. Companies can also set emission reduction targets as a proportion of certain business metrics, such as revenue or output, meaning emissions will not fall at a fast enough rate as the business grows.

Reducing emissions from production can also be a challenge as it requires working with subcontractors.

While Finnwatch views the initiative as a useful tool for meeting base-level climate goals, it emphasizes that companies should adopt the same abatement targets throughout their value chain regardless of the freedoms the initiative provides.

By setting strict targets that also cover emissions from subcontractors, it will be easier for companies to give their own partners reasons why they should also reduce emissions, said Leipola.

Finnwatch states that targets that fail to account for partners and most emissions are simply insufficient in a situation where the carbon budget for the 1.5 degrees goal will be exhausted within a few years.

The fashion and textile industries have become aware of their enormous climate and environmental burdens, but action has been too slow. Therefore, decision-makers must act urgently: the corporate responsibility directive under negotiation must oblige companies to change their operating models in line with the target of 1.5 degrees, emphasized Leipola.

Careful climate action planning in the fashion and textile industries is also needed to ensure the transition is fair for vulnerable producing countries.

Consumers, meanwhile, must adhere to one simple rule, according to watchdogs: buy new clothes less often and repair and recycle old ones as long as possible.

Alex Teivainen HT