Fashion: Necklaces for men – once fat, now cool news

Anyone who deals with fashion history quickly realizes that men with necklaces are actually more normal than men without jewelry. After decades of the bad reputation of gold chains, for example, today’s men’s jewelery is making a comeback. And it’s happened to a lot of guys, from macho guys to mama’s boys. What is the “Statement Necklace” about?

At the film’s premiere in Los Angeles, freestyle skier Gus Kenworthy (31) recently even wore a delicate necklace with his tuxedo, “Elvis” actor Austin Butler (31) wore a fine one in Beverly Hills at his Oscar nomination lunch. In the fashionable Netflix series “Emily in Paris”, the lover of Emily Cooper, a banker from London, prefers to wear a sparkling necklace with a shirt and jacket instead of a tie. Alfie, played by Lucien Laviscount (30), often wears chains with his polo shirts.

Pop singer Harry Styles (recently at the Grammy Awards), actor Timothe Chalamet, many influencers, hip-hop or K-pop stars, internet celebrities such as the Elevator Boys, tennis player Alexander Zverev and other athletes adorn themselves with chains of various brand. Good

“Chest and beard hair as a sign of masculinity”

In the summer of 2023, too, men’s chains – long despised as a chav order – will be back in vogue: if the neckline is lower or the upper body is bare, shiny jewelry will attract attention. male sex object.

Masculinity researcher Toni Tholen of the University of Hildesheim says men’s necklaces partially offset the decline in the appeal of men’s formal attire. “Suit-and-tie looks in particular are usually considered boring these days. The change in fashion was accompanied by neoliberal calls to eschew bureaucratic, distant, austere appearances and instead become sexy, attractive, playful, more approachable and a little outlandish. give.”

However, men still want to radiate sovereignty and determination, said the literature scholar. “They then use chest hair and beards as markers of masculinity, for example – and trained bodies, muscles or tattoos.”

Tholen also saw necklaces as a new type of tie. “Chains are the new ties that make the phallus sometimes symbolized by a tie seem less visible.”

“Macho often lurks behind a cute facade”

Wearing chains indicates a masculinity that is referred to as “hybrid” in masculinity research. “Aspects coded as ‘feminine’ are integrated into male gender performance without questioning the privileged position of masculinity.” As fashion often only simulates modernization, feminine men’s jewelery such as chains are also a part of masculinity which seems only to be modernized. “Macho often lurks behind a cute façade.”

In ancient Egypt, men’s jewelry indicated high status, with the Romans there were necklaces, breast pins, and bracelets, and in the Renaissance. In the Baroque era, the nobility – especially the Sun King Louis XIV of France – relied on glitter everywhere.

Until the French Revolution and the gradual end of the old aristocracy, men, if they were wealthy, wore colorful and magnificent jewellery. With Napoleon and the 19th century, cute men’s jewelery was replaced by military badges and medals.

With the Biedermeier period, men’s fashion changed fundamentally – in Europe and North America at least: First came the tight-fitting frock coat and finally in the 20th century the suit or, for the evening, the tailcoat or tuxedo. Incredible pieces of jewelery were suddenly in the favor of men. Less often, more masculine – according to new ideals.

“Everybody wants a little street and ghetto”

Until recently, experts had recommended very few accessories for men: a fine watch, a fine pair of cufflinks, and, if married, a modest wedding ring.

“For a long time, a colorful tie was the only decoration allowed for muted suits and shirts,” says Carl Tillessen of the German Fashion Institute (DMI). “While the rest of the attire is kept simple, a tie is a few square inches of silk that men are allowed to wear for fun.”

It came to an abrupt end when, at the start of the millennium, the narrow tie, also kept in muted plain colors, was announced. “You could say that the designer in charge, Hedi Slimane, helped tie to make a comeback and at the same time made it redundant.”

Chief analyst DMI Tillessen says that chains as a new bond can be divided into at least two distinct types: “On one side is a thick gangster gold chain often worn with a very masculine, macho attitude.” It’s booming right now because the athleisure fashion of recent years – from “athletic” (sporty) and “leisure wear” (casual wear) – has been heavily influenced by hip-hop attitudes. “So everybody wants a bit of street and ghetto and flirting with the nouveau riche and the chav.”

On the other hand, boys and men wear fine necklaces, including pearl necklaces. “It is an expression of a new androgynous male image. It is spreading as traditional gender roles and gender identities are increasingly being questioned. Gender-fluid accessories express a need to distance oneself externally from toxic masculinity or so-called old white men.”