[ad_1]
Queen Elizabeth II insisted her historic 1953 coronation gown should represent the countries from around the world where she reigns.
The lavishly embroidered satin dress, created by British couturier Sir Norman Hartnell, is considered one of the most important examples of 20th century design.
It features a grid effect with an iconographic scheme of floral emblems in gold and silver threads and pastel-colored silk.
The embroidery is arranged in three scalloped, graduated tiers bordered by alternating lines of gold horn beads, diamantes, and mother-of-pearl.
Sir Norman said the Queen made it clear she did not want to wear a dress bearing the coats of arms of the four English nations without one being on the territory where she is also king.
The design process began in October 1952, after Sir Norman was personally commissioned by the king, having designed his wedding gown almost exactly five years earlier.
He produced a total of nine sketches, with the Queen choosing the eighth but asking for more color to be added rather than just silver embroidery.
Writing in his autobiography, Sir Norman said he had spent many days in exile in the Forest of Windsor coming up with ideas.
“In all, I created nine different designs that started with almost severe simplicity and worked their way to elaboration,” he writes.
“I like the latter the best, but naturally did not express my opinion when I presented this painting to His Majesty.”
Sir Norman then relates how he researched four flowers in Great Britain; the Tudor rose for England, the thistle for Scotland and the Irish shamrock, but has been rebuked for believing that the Welsh coat of arms should be the lily.
”Lily!’ cried Garter (King of Weapons). ‘Under no circumstances would I give you daffodils. I will give you the true coat of arms of Wales, which is the Leek’,” he wrote.
The leek I agree with is a most amazing vegetable, full of historical significance and unquestionable health benefits, but hardly renowned for its beauty.
“Couldn’t he allow me to use a more graceful daffodil? ‘No, Hartnell. You must have the Leek,’ said Garter, insisting.’”
The final designs, shown by Sir Norman to the Queen at Sandringham, included: Maple leaves for Canada; Wattle for Australia; ferns for New Zealand; Protea for South Africa; lotus flowers for India and Ceylon, and wheat, cotton and jute for Pakistan.
The Queen remained monarch of Canada, Australia and New Zealand for the rest of her life and a number of other Commonwealth countries, but South Africa, Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon) and Pakistan later became republics.
Elizabeth II was never queen of India, which became a republic before her accession to the throne, but the country remains part of the Commonwealth.
The silk for the gown was produced at Lady Hart Dyke’s silk farm in Lullingstone Castle, Kent, and woven by Warner and Sons in Essex.
It took a team of 12 tailors, using 18 types of gold thread, 3,500 hours to complete the Queen’s embroidered cipher and borders of ears of wheat and olive branches, which symbolize prosperity and peace.
Sir Norman became the first couturier to be knighted when he received the honor during the Silver Anniversary in 1977, shortly before his death in 1979.
The Queen continued to wear the gown during receptions at Buckingham Palace and Holyroodhouse Palace as well as for the Opening of Parliament in New Zealand, Australia and Ceylon in 1954, ensuring that the gown was visible throughout the Commonwealth.
The historic item is now part of the Royal Collection, but was available to the public for viewing last July, to celebrate the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee.
|
Sources 2/ https://www.irishnews.com/magazine/entertainment/2023/04/24/news/queen_wanted_coronation_dress_to_reflect_emblems_from_across_the_globe-3230475/ The mention sources can contact us to remove/changing this article |
[ad_2]