5 Chanel Gabrielle “Coco” Designs That Never Go Out of Time

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel changed the way women dressed by challenging the fashion conventions of the early 20th century. His desire for women’s clothing to be comfortable rather than restrictive was considered very radical at the time. “The hardest thing about my job is allowing women to move around easily, to move as if they were not wearing costumes,” she said in a film released by the house in 2013. “It doesn’t change attitudes, or behavior, depending on their clothes. – it’s so hard. And the human body is always in motion.”

Chanel’s personal impact on fashion will be documented in an upcoming exhibition at the V&A, Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto. This exhibition will explore how her signature designs were first developed, and revisit how she founded the Chanel house. It’s only open on September 16th, but you can pre-book it already ticket on the museum’s website. While we wait for our chance to enter Coco’s world, revisit her most iconic creations, below.

Little black dress

Mode introduced the world to Chanel LBD in its October 1926 issue with an illustration of a woman wearing a long-sleeved black dress that fell just below the knee. This new style of dress has been likened to the revolutionary Model T car, invented by Henry Ford in the 1920s.

Skirt suit

As Mode‘s Edward Enninful once said of Chanel’s tweed jacket, “It’s the ultimate sign of luxury – it never goes out of style, and it never will go out of style.” In the 20s, Chanel was inspired by the men’s fishing and hunting tweed jacket she saw her lover, the Duke of Westminster, wearing in the Highlands. However, it was not until 1954 that the official tweed jacket was launched. Instead of the classic coarse tweed, Chanel reworked traditional Scottish fabrics, creating a soft bucked tweed (known as bouclé), which allowed for more movement.

Two tone pump

Gabrielle Chanel was first seen wearing two-tone pumps in the ’20s, but it wasn’t until 1957 that the first monochrome slingback by Chanel was made official. She designed an elegant versatile heel with cobbler Massaro so women could wear it all day and night without too much discomfort. Another handy note detail? Black toe cap, which prevents it from chafing.

Breton boss

Gabrielle Chanel included a nautical-striped Breton top in her collection in 1917, and it became the cornerstone of her own wardrobe. In the ’30s, she was photographed wearing a striped top tucked into tailored trousers, an outfit that feels just as stylish and modern almost a century later.

2.55 bags

Gabrielle Chanel first started working on a 2.55 layered handbag back in the 20’s. It was finally launched in February 1955 (hence the moniker) and was the first handbag with a shoulder strap. The distinctive strap is inspired by the chain Chanel uses to weight the hems of its suit jackets and is filled with handy compartments, including a back slip pocket for bills and a lipstick-shaped holder in the center of the bag.

Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto will open at the V&A on September 16