Best British designs: Bjrks’ swan dress and Sam Smith’s controversial latex suit to show off

In 2001, Bjrk’s decision to wear a dress resembling a swan to the Oscars drew relentless criticism, with the Icelandic singer finding herself on most worst-dressed lists after the event.

It’s 22 years later and Marjan Pejoski’s creations are truly red carpet fashion icons – and are being showcased for the first time in the UK, as part of a major exhibition celebrating the young London-based designer.

The show – Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion – will open in September at the Design Museum in the capital and will showcase more than 100 garments from Britain’s best designers.

Starring alongside the swan gown were the Russell Sage-designed Union Jack jacket worn by Kate Moss, Sam Smith’s controversial replica Harri-designed inflatable latex suit worn to this year’s Brit Awards as well as looks from well-known London established brands including Erdem and Christopher Kane.

The exhibition’s opening will coincide with London Fashion Week and look back at the last three decades of the British Fashion Council’s Newgen programme, which has long supported emerging talent.

The program’s alumni include some of the most recognizable names in all of British fashion, including Christopher Kane, Jonathan Anderson (famous for his line JW Anderson) and the late great Alexander McQueen, whose iconic brand sponsored the Rebel exhibition.

Museum of Design director and chief executive Tim Marlow explained, “Visitors will be stunned by the many instantly recognizable fashion items on display, but we expect they will also be captivated by the breadth, depth, diversity and world-class talent. has emerged from the London fashion scene in the last three decades.

Also on display is the ruffled blue Molly Goddard gown worn by Rihanna in 2017 – the singer a longtime British designer champion, who was also the brains behind Villanelles’ iconic pink dress on the cult TV show Killing Eve – and pieces designed by recent menswear graduate Steven Stokey Daley whose collection mega-star Harry Styles wore in his Golden music video.

The show will be divided into sections designed to explore the journey of upcoming designers as they move through the industry and will include art school, backstage and runway areas.

While the other three established fashion capitals – Milan with its glitz, Paris with its slick designs and sleek looks springing out of New York – London has a certain quirky edge to it.

It is impossible to underestimate London’s influence on British fashion talent, a city that has produced wave after wave of young designers who value originality, wear what you believe in, and tackle social issues to make the world a better place,

Sarah Mower, BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent and guest curator for REBEL explained, adding, “This landmark Exhibition will take visitors on an extraordinary journey through London’s creative landscape, and to all the locations where all this fashion magic happens. The city’s art schools, clubs and catwalks will be brought to life like never before.

REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion sponsored by Alexander McQueen opens at the Design Museum in London on 16 September 2023.