Can fast mode slow down? It’s not that simple

One of the biggest players in fast fashion says it is taking major steps towards a more sustainable business model. But in an industry based on low costs, low quality, and high production volumes, experts say it won’t be easy.

“It’s hard to see how they will actually achieve their emission reduction targets,” said Ken Pucker, a professor at the Fletcher School at Tufts University in Medford, Mass., who focuses on sustainability.

“Because the volume will continue to rise.”

In an ambitious new plan, Inditex, Zara’s parent company, announced earlier this month that it would aim to halve its emissions by 2030, and to net zero by 2040. It also said it would shift to using materials that last longer and are easier to recycle.

Experts say the move signals a shift towards a circular business model meaning materials can be reused and regenerated instead of thrown away as the fashion industry faces more criticism for its too large environmental footprint.

In 2021, the World Economic Forum identified the fashion industry as the third largest polluter in the world. And as trend cycles accelerate, most clothes bought are only worn seven times before being thrown away, according to a British Studies 2015.

In its new plan, Zara said 40 percent of the company’s fiber would come from recycled materials, 25 percent from sustainable agricultural crops, and another 25 percent from “next-generation materials” invested by Inditex.

The big problem, experts say, is that the company is showing no signs of slowing production, raising questions about how realistic this target is.

“In order to achieve their goals, all of these things had to happen yesterday. And I fear there may not be sufficient financial and time incentives to undermine their ability to achieve their goals,” said Pucker.

The fast fashion industry is growing. Companies like Shein and Fashion Nova, for example, have gained immense popularity through social media, where Shein has 29.6 million followers on Instagram and people regularly post their fashion results on TikTok.

For fast fashion, the need to constantly produce and grow presents a paradox, says Shivika Sinha, founder of US-based sustainable styling service Veneka.

“The paradox is that Zara is one of the originators of the fast fashion model,” says Sinha. “It will be difficult for them to implement it.”

Even so, Sinha said he was confident Zara’s targets were achievable.

“There’s been enough innovation in recycling for Zara to achieve this goal. I think it’s a matter of Zara’s culture and where do they prioritize funding for these kinds of projects, and how does the EU hold them accountable.”

Motivates companies to produce less

Zara’s new accelerated goals come as the European Commission is drafting a slew of new regulations that will oblige fashion companies to produce clothing in a more sustainable manner and be responsible for their environmental impact.

The Commission proposes to introduce Extended Manufacturer’s Responsibility (EPR)scheme for textiles in all EU member states, making manufacturers responsible for the full life cycle of their products. Once implemented, manufacturers will be responsible for the costs of managing their textile waste.

According toEuropean Environment Agency, in 2019, 46 percent of European used textiles ended up in African countries. The agency says what is not suitable for reuse often ends up in open dumps and informal waste streams.

The idea behind the EPR scheme is to motivate companies to make less garments, said Kelly Drennan, executive director of Fashion Takes Action, a nonprofit in Toronto.

“The more garments they make, the higher the cost of managing end of life. So if they can actually slow down production, produce less, then it’s going to save them money in the end,” he said.

Drennan said he expected the impact the European EPR rules would have on Canada.

“Ultimately, we’d benefit from seeing clothing made from more sustainably sourced materials, which are more durable, that take end-of-life into account when they’re being designed. And hopefully we’ll see less waste as a result.”

Is Canada lagging behind?

In Canada, there is no specific EPR program for textiles, says Drennan. That’s because most of our waste is managed at the provincial or city level, with little harmonization across provinces.

Drennan estimates it will be around 10 years before Canada establishes a textile EPR scheme for its own textile companies. Canadians throw away nearly 500 million kilograms of fabric goods every year, according to researcher at the University of Waterloo.

Without proper legislation, it would be up to companies to take the lead, said Drennan, noting policies like those in Europe were the only way the industry would make significant change.

“While there are some leaders who are investing time, money and research into sustainability, circularity and human rights initiatives, most brands are not. And it takes legislation for them to start thinking differently.”

But while fast fashion companies like Zara are looking to reduce their ecological footprint, Drennan anticipates a bigger challenge for the industry: ultrafast fashion.

“Historically, they (Zara, H&M) are the kings and queens of fast fashion,” he said.

“Aspects of the challenge we face today is the new era of fast fashion, or what we call ultra-fast fashion, with brands like Sheinand Fashion Nova and Boohoo churning out thousands of styles every day. We hope the EPR law will influence these brands going forward.”