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LONDON — Erdem Moralioglu has realized a long-term dream of designing menswear, and launched the category, complete with knitwear, outerwear and specialty wear, for the spring of 2022.
The designer, known for his rich, patterned fabrics—and numerous references to European aristocrats and socialites—said it was time he jumped into menswear, which will be sold through his London store and online channels and through multi-brand specialty stores as well.
In an interview, Moralioglu said the months of lockdown gave him time to plan how to dress his husband, who he described as a brother to the woman Erdem.
“An older brother like that steals his sweater and other clothes and adopts them for himself.” Moralioglu admits that he and the men at his studio have, in the past, taken knitwear and denim from women’s collections, for their own wardrobes.
“I’ve always felt so much of the world I created for women could be applied to men. It’s just unavoidable. And the calm of the pandemic allowed time to focus, to really think about who my man is, what he’s about, his relationship with my woman.”
Moralioglu says he uses many of the same knitwear, shirts and outerwear factories that produce his women’s clothing. The collection will also have the same luxury price points as women’s clothing. The collection will begin landing on the shop floor in November.
For his debut collection, Moralioglu took the late filmmaker Derek Jarman, author of “Modern Nature,” as one of his inspirations. Moralioglu said he loved the idea of dressing in uniform and was inspired by Jarman in the ubiquitous boiler suit, on the waterfront in Dungeness, on England’s south coast.
He shot the lookbook, and the accompanying film, on the beach, not in Dungeness, but on the south coast, not far from the Isle of Wight, conjuring the gloomy landscape of Jarman’s books.
Moralioglu also saw the works and notebooks of British watercolor painter Patrick Procktor, who was always impeccably dressed. Designers say Procktor’s look inspired him to create classic outfits, including a jacquard mac cotton camel and a line of breezy collarless shirts.
The collection is undoubtedly Erdem, with plenty of jewel-toned cashmere knitwear, mohair sweaters with bold stripes, sharply designed jackets with quilted buttons and ankle lengths, flat front pants, chinos and corduroys worn with, or without. , a belt.
A floral print, reminiscent of Jarman’s cottage gardens and Procktor’s nature paintings in Morocco, Corfu and Egypt adorns wide-legged shorts and denim trim.
Moralioglu’s move to a new category is unusual for a London designer in the aftermath of COVID-19. Many have streamlined their businesses in response to the pandemic, reducing the number of collections they make each year, displaying in a simpler format or not at all.
He is also one of the few London designers to build a profitable business without significant outside investment. According to Companies House, the official list of UK businesses, for the fiscal year ending 31 March 2020, Erdem’s turnover was 11.7 million pounds while profit was 227,318 pounds.
The designer has an independent shop on South Audley Street in Mayfair, London and sells her women’s collection at stores including Matchesfashion, Net-a-porter, Selfridges, Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue.
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