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On a Friday night around 7 p.m. prime time, a visitor walks into the golden lobby of one of San Francisco’s hottest new restaurants, the newly opened and absolutely gorgeous Empress by Boon. According to his colleague, who was honest, said he was parking the car: The restaurant asked for a table for two. The host gave an apology, saying the restaurant was fully committed. The restaurant asked if they could at least sit at the bar. The host apologized again, saying the restaurant had a dress code, and even the bar needed collared shirts.
He certainly doesn’t look disheveled, exclaimed his colleague, who asked not to be named, since he works in the hospitality industry. He was wearing a nice sweater and dark jeans. Maybe the shoes aren’t shiny enough. Is he a tech worker, one might ask? Why yes, he has successfully founded several startups. But he’s not wearing a hoodie and sneakers, he’s upgraded to a sweater and slip-on. For her to dress up! We were just surprised. The couple went on to enjoy cocktails at Mister Jius, where they laughed it off with the bartender.
Per the Empress by Boons website, the new restaurant does have a dress code: Business casual is required, no shorts or T-shirts. But general manager James Minch wanted to step in to smooth out any miscommunication about the collar. We apologize for that! Minch said, who is still training a whole new staff. The dress code is very simple. There are very few limitations. He says t-shirts are fine under a sweater or blazer, but the restaurant is drawing the line on the shorts, and has turned down several other parties. As in this example, he said no one was very disappointed, although some were a little surprised.
I wouldn’t say it’s fine dining, but we’re upscale, and we want our guests to feel comfortable dressing up, says Minch. Many people came to the Empress for special occasions, such as birthdays and anniversaries. Empress by Boon only opened a month ago on June 16th, but the real Empress of China has a long history as a restaurant for special occasions long before that.
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Patricia Chang
The original Empress of China, built in 1966 and reigning until 2014, did have a dress code in the past, and for decades many have seen it as part of the experience in the grand banquet hall. It was part of the ambiance and elegance of the restaurant, recalled Pearl Tom, a member of the consort of China. The Empress was probably one of the first white tablecloth fine-dining Chinese restaurants in San Francisco. It’s where you dress up. Tom said his aunt, a famous opera diva, sang at the opening ceremony, and when she went in for dinner, would enter in a silk cheongsam dress with a high collar and side slit and a feather stole. In the late sixties and seventies, men would wear suits and waiters would wear tuxedos. For years, jackets and ties were necessary, although in recent years before the restaurant closed in 2014, they were so desperate for business they would sit a party of tourists dressed in t-shirts without comment.
Today, a dress code is extremely rare in San Francisco. A quick examination of even the most luxurious three-Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant in the Bay Area reveals that many dress codes appear to have been sidelined. Benu, Quince and Manresa do not mention the dress code on their website. Atelier Crenn at least answers the FAQ, but in the most casual way possible: Our suggested dress code is casual-elegant, jacket not required. However we encourage dressing up for this special evening. Even French Laundry now advises visitors, No dress code, please dress comfortably! Although on various online forums, many visitors conclude that they themselves prefer to dress casually.
But at the end of the day, it’s still San Francisco in 2021, and tech workers really love their hoodies and sneakers. Honestly, after years of wearing sweat suits at home, it feels like a pretty big effort to put on the best jeans to go out to dinner. And of all the details that recent SF visitors have had to plan and consider to get a reservation, whether to do it indoors or outdoors, whether to wear a mask, figuring out the new menu QR code, outlining the new surcharge on the bill, some big would never even think of doing it. check dress code.
People are excited to go out to dinner again, Minch said. They are very passionate and understanding. In other news, the Empress has just refreshed her prix-fixe menu, which now includes XLB soup dumplings stuffed with Iberican ham and the crispy mini chicken that many boast in curry sauce. Catch a reservation if you can. Just don’t wear shorts.
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Patricia Chang
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