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The problem ultra-treated
Seven out of ten products in a representative sample of production from the UK’s 30 largest food companies are ultra-processed, meaning they have been created using industrial methods to be tasty and high in calories despite their low nutritional value.
So what? Eating ultra-processed foods — like instant noodles, sugary breakfast cereals, cookies, and chicken nuggets — has been linked to an increased risk of cancer and cardiovascular disease.
Investors have pressured food companies to make their product lines healthier and some countries are urging consumers to avoid these foods. Their prevalence in UK diets is a key finding of the second annual update of the Better Turtle Feeding Index.
By the numbers:
70 – percentage share of products in the assembled sample for the index that are ultra-processed
11 – companies in the index, including Kraft Heinz, Mondelez and Birds Eye, which sell these products cheaper per calorie than their non-ultra-processed products
57 – percentage of UK population’s calorie intake from ultra-processed foods
85.5 – percentage share of ultra-processed foods in the portfolios of the sample of the ten companies with the highest profit margins in the index
New objective. This focus on the health risks of ultra-processed foods represents a different way of thinking about food — not just the amount of fat, sugar and salt on the table, but how food is made. . Research suggests that ultra-processed foods encourage overconsumption, contributing to rising levels of obesity.
Not your 5 days. Ultra-processed foods are attractive to businesses because they are sustainable and made from inexpensive ingredients, but they are likely to be nutritionally unbalanced – ultra-processed foods on the index are twice as likely to be considered unhealthy according to the government’s model nutrient profile.
What to do? One regulatory option is a tax on ultra-processed foods akin to the soft drink tax, introduced in 2018, which encouraged manufacturers to reduce the sugar content of their products. Failing that, the experts believe that the general objectives of the policy should be
- a level playing field for food businesses;
- clarity on definitions and targets; And
- incentives for producers and supermarkets to prioritize healthier options.
“Unless all companies have the same rules, they won’t be risking their market share to make these changes and our people will continue to suffer,” says Tim Spector, professor of genetic epidemiology at King’s College London.
Mike Barry, former director of sustainable business at M&S, said there had been climate-related progress thanks to a clear hierarchy of goals. But “when we talk about ultra-processed foods, we don’t know where we are coming from”.
Definitions. Some healthy foods, which provide essential nutrients at affordable prices – such as fish fingers and canned beans – can also be classified as ultra-processed according to the widely used Nova classification.
The Nova system examines the degree of processing of foods and the ingredients they contain. But definitions of “ultra-processed” can be slippery. An alternative system known as IARC-EPIC examines how natural these changes are: drying potatoes is artificial, but drying grapes to make raisins is healthy.
A Birds Eye spokesperson called the Nova classification “intrinsically flawed”, saying some of its definitions of ultra-processed foods were based on perception rather than scientific evidence.
Kraft Heinz added that processing can have value – extending the shelf life of foods, improving taste and adding vitamins and minerals. A spokesperson said the company has long been committed to improving the nutrition of its products, with an emphasis on reducing sugar, sodium, saturated fat and calories. Mondelez did not respond to a request for comment.
Regulating ultra-processed foods could prove difficult, even if there is political will to intervene at a time when prices are soaring. In Brazil, government guidelines tell people to avoid the consumption of ultra-processed foods. French guests are advised to limit their consumption of these foods. Such a fuss could be the limit of effective state action.
Note: The analysis is based on a sample of 15-30 products collected by Tortoise for each company to reflect their product line. Product selection was weighted based on sales data, when available.
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