Critic Robert Sietsema’s 11 Favorite Winter Sandwiches

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Since the start of the pandemic, we’ve celebrated sandwiches for their economy, versatility and deliciousness every three months or so. What’s easier to eat than a sandwich when COVID keeps you from lingering in a dining room, and what could be more portable if you have to carry it home or gulp it down on the go?

So far, we’ve mostly touted cold or warm sandwiches, but recent snow and freezing weather suggests it’s time for the hot sandwiches. Not only do they warm you up when you eat them, but they also act as portable hand warmers when you carry them around in the cold. Here are 11 new favorites, ranked in increasing order of excellence.

11. Panino of arugula, sundried tomatoes and grilled artichokes at Villa Della Scrofa

Located in the East Village but named after a Roman street, VDS is the kind of quirky little store one might find in the Eternal City. It sells groceries imported from Italy, including small production meats made by friends of the owner and pasta in small batches, tiny cups of one-shot espresso, and sandwiches made in a cramped counter at the back. Of the 10 on offer, this one is the best: from sweet slippery grilled artichokes to sundried and sour tomatoes with arugula, all reheated on a roll (takes about 10 minutes, and costs just $ 9). “We keep the prices low,” says owner Giovanni Bartocci. 60 East Fourth Street, between Third and Second Avenues, East Village

Panino at Villa Della Scrofa 10. Lamb torta at Migrant Kitchen Dumbo

Chefs Dan Dorado and Nasser Jaber set out to explore the fusion of Middle Eastern and Mexican ingredients and cooking styles that brought them to Williamsburg and ultimately the Financial District in late 2020. They have since transformed the concept into a mini-empire. This hot sandwich ($ 19) is the perfect example of their efforts: a Mexican torta whose main ingredient is roast Middle Eastern lamb rubbed with sumac and Aleppo peppers for a tangy tang, then incorporated into a telera roll with the addition of black beans, avocado, Oaxacan cheese and pickled jalapenos. This sandwich pulls in two directions at once which is a huge plus when it comes to taste. 55 Water Street, between Dock Street and Main Street, Dumbo

Lamb cake at Migrant Kitchen. 9. mushroom eggs in Via Porta

This new sandwich shop and dessert café-bar from the Artusi team offers a series of hot sandwiches, presented in the form of a small-scale panini. They are so incredibly rich that a bigger sandwich would be almost impossible to eat all at once. My favorite so far, featured on a square roll that develops a crispy exterior with crevices from its passage through the sandwich press, is uova funghi ($ 14.75). The filling is packed with fluffy and creamy scrambled eggs forming a matrix for various sautéed mushrooms with gouda and lemon aioli. There is also a surprise sprinkled with pancetta which has been made into a kind of croutons. 522 Hudson Street, between Charles and West 11th Street, West Village

Mushroom eggs in Via Porta. 8. Pork Sando at Evil Katsu

One of the best food trends to hit the city in recent years was the Japanese sando. Usually, this is a fried cutlet coated with mayo and placed on two slices of soft white bread with the crusts cut off. In keeping with the tradition of serving katsu, shredded cabbage and carrot are the only other garnish. East Village’s Evil Katsu pokes fun at tradition, while producing exemplary hot pork katsu sando ($ 16) with a crunch that resonates like a firecracker in the small dining room. 435 East Ninth Street, between First Avenue and Avenue A, East Village

Pork Sando at Evil Katsu. 7. Roast pork and broccoli rabe sandwich at Federoff’s

You might as well be in Philadelphia at this North Side sandwich shop in Williamsburg, with its white subway tile interior and antique sign. Yes, the cheesesteak sandwich is up to the job, but why not go for the hoagie that Philadelphians love even more? The Roast Pork Broccoli Rabe Sandwich combines the creaminess of the pork of a fatty roast with the bitterness of broccoli rabe, a vegetable that many Americans are still learning to appreciate but one that is close to the soul of the southern Italian cuisine. The addition of aged, sharp provolone ensures that the sandwich ($ 14) is a Phillies home run. 178 North 10th Street, between Bedford and Driggs avenues, Williamsburg

Roast pork and broccoli rabe sandwich at Federoff’s. 6. Eggplant heroin with Salumeria Biellese

One of the best vegetarian dishes in the world, aubergine parma, was invented by immigrants from southern Italy who brought their love of the purple vegetable here. It served first as a meat substitute – breaded and fried in thin slices and topped with mozzarella and tomato sauce, eggplant is just as good and often tastier than veal or chicken. And there’s no better Eggplant Hero ($ 10.25) in town than the lightly breaded one from venerable Chelsea institution Salumeria Biellese. 378 Eighth Avenue, in West 29th Street, Chelsea

Eggplant parm hero at Salumeria Biellese. 5. Croque madame at Pastis

Admittedly, the pastis croque monsieur is not the kind of sandwich praised in the introduction to this menu that you eat while strolling in the street. It’s more of a knife and fork type sandwich, and gets even more so when a runny egg is added to the croque-madame ($ 20), increasing the richness of the salted ham and oozing gruyere. of the sandwich counterpart. The salad dressing on the side is another plus, helping to cut the fat. 52 Gansevoort Street, between Greenwich and Washington Streets, Meatpacking District

Croque madame at Pastis, 4. Double fried banh mi chicken at 5ive Spice

Merging today’s fried chicken sandwich with classic banh mi has been a pretty common experience lately, but few places do it quite as well as Park Slope’s 5ive Spice. The pair of thin scallops, crispy and piping hot, are not allowed to dominate the sandwich, as many oversized scallops tend to do. It’s a hell of a sandwich ($ 10) and the fact that it doesn’t stray far from the banh mi formula, where pickles and herbs are allowed to shine as well, is an added bonus to enjoying it. 52 Fifth Avenue, at Bergen Street, Park Slope

Double banh mi fried chicken at 5ive Spice. 3. Hot roast beef at Defonte

In the heart of maritime Brooklyn in Red Hook, Defonte’s Sandwich Shop is on the eve of its 100th anniversary. His take on the hero of the classic hot Italian roast beef makes a difference: in addition to the hot rare roast beef, there is fresh mozzarella; meat juices that do not quite reach the status of brown sauce; and a slice of fried eggplant is added for more texture. A medium-sized sandwich is large enough for two and will set you back $ 9.90, while the large one is $ 11.50. Either way, the roast beef itself is some of the best in Brooklyn, not to mention the fresh mutz. 379 Columbus Street, at Commerce Street, Red Hook

Hot roast beef sandwich at Defonte. 2. Leg of lamb sandwich in El Toum

Lebanese newcomer El Toum livened up the lunchtime scene in Jackson Heights with his sharp homemade pickles and the generous application of his namesake condiment: toum, which is a white garlic sauce so potent that it will leave your lips burning. From the special lunch menu, the sliced ​​leg of lamb sandwich ($ 8.99) is served hot, the meat hot topped with salad, beetroot-colored turnip pickles and lots of toum. Every bite is a pleasure. 35-62 76th Street, between 37th and 35th avenues, Jackson Heights

Leg of lamb sandwich in El Toum. 1. Grilled steak and mozzarella hero at Paneantico

Bensonhurst and Hoboken are famous for their heroes of Roast Beef with Brown Gravy and Mozzarella, a gorgeous mess of a sandwich dripping with gravy. But this sandwich ($ 14.75) from a Bay Ridge Italian bakery, deli, and daytime hangout is a different animal. The sirloin is grilled to perfection, the half-baguette of fresh semolina heated to a golden color, the room temperature mozzarella sliced ​​and freshly applied. The result is a hot, beefy sandwich, and it can really be the best way to enjoy aged rib eye with no condiments needed and the meat never dries out with juice covering every slice. 9124 Third Avenue, 92nd Street, Bay Ridge

Grilled steak and mozzarella hero at Paneantico.

522 Hudson St, New York, NY 10014

35-62 76th Street, Queens, NY 11372 (718) 440-9970

379 Columbia Street, Brooklyn, NY 11231 (718) 625-8052

60 E 4th St, New York, NY 10003

178 N 10th Street, New York, NY 11211

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