Food critic reviews stuffed crust pizzas from Pizza Hut, Papa John’s and more

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Much like grunge, fanny packs and Sharon Stone, Pizza Huts’ popularity seems to have peaked in 1995, the year it brought the world to the world of stuffed crust pies. At the time, the movement was called a revolution by the shack, which is a pretty bold claim when all you’ve done is put cheese inside an outer ring of pizza crusts, but the movement turned out to be transformative. It was not the only successful invention of 1995 that initially caused confusion and skepticism. Amazon, eBay, Windows 95, and the Palm Pilot have all asked questions like why do we need them? But only the stuffed crust pizza left us seriously asking no, why?

And while Big Pizza has powerfully capitalized on the pandemic, its chains have made huge profits by offering rock-bottom prices, let’s face it, red-bottomed pizzas, a perpetual red-roofed gloom seems to have befallen it. the shack. Much of what set him apart is now long gone: faux Tiffany lamps, whimsical checkered vinyl tablecloths, washed-out rugs too sucked in by teens, lunch buffets in America’s innocence before the ‘sneeze. Meanwhile, the contestants aimed at his proudest achievement, deepening the Pizza Rut. Last December, Papa Johns started offering his own stuffed crust. Last month Little Caesars did the same.

Neither of the three crusts the whole crust, of course, but rather the part that Italians call the cornicione. Here in the United States, it’s called 1) what you catch when you pull a slice of a pie, 2) what keeps you from using utensils, and 3) what keeps the slices cold enough to handle. when you try to burn the roof of your mouth beyond recognition. It also made pizza considerably less messy, successfully preventing grease and sauce stains centuries before the invention of the Scotchgard and Tide pens. I couldn’t help but nod my head as a spokesperson for Little Caesars called the cornicione “the most underrated part of pizza”.

Hence the company’s ExtraMostBest stuffed crust pizza ($ 10), which uses something that looks like a circular squirt of three-foot tub caulk that’s more of lo-mo mozzarella mixed with chunks of pepperoni. Or so I’ve heard. The Little Caesars Pie I ordered arrived stuffed with cheese on its own, unless there was pepperoni I couldn’t detect which is quite likely given how good I found the discs. leftovers scattered on the surface of my pizza. Indeed, this was the NewLeastTastiest pie I’ve had in quite some time.

Papa Johns scored higher with his Epic Stuffed Crust ($ 12), which, true to its name, has a tube of batter-coated cheese with a surface tension approaching a road-ready bike tire. A fair amount of leopard spots could be seen on the crust as well, with the charred areas going a long way in making a pajama pie look like real pizza. Plus, the pepperoni actually tasted like something.

My critical investigation ended with a pilgrimage to the Cabane. Their Pioneer Pie ($ 13.99) primarily stood out with an oil-painted post-baked crust, giving it a dust-free shine / sparkle / shine. The pie was cheesy but not too much, and pepperoni sprinkled with flavor notes here and there.

Big Pizza, it must be said, remains one of the bargains of the fast food nations, an important consideration in these times of inflation. Such pies, it must also be said, are inferior to almost anything you would find in a good pizzeria on the island. Do the chains themselves recognize it? That would explain, at the very least, the growing attention to menu items that regular pizzerias can’t or don’t want to bother with, and the bet that a little cheese stuffing will be enough to attract pizza lovers. away from their local haunts. What a crust, right?

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For island locations, visit littlecaesars.com, papajohns.com, and pizzahut.com.

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