Talent emerging in the spotlight at Paris Fashion Week hybrid

But brands that choose to keep physical shows like AMI on Wednesday could benefit from a relative increase in prominence. As always, the start of Paris Fashion Week is a time to showcase new talent before the next appearances from industry heavyweights like Dior, Louis Vuitton and Hermes.

Here are some highlights from the Wednesday fall-winter 2022 show:

AMI HAS A 90’s HIT

If unmissable billboards throughout Paris advertising his show are anything to go by, AMI designer Alexandre Mattiussi hopes to capitalize on being one of the few live shows on Wednesday.

The fall-winter show did not disappoint, being the biggest of the Paris season so far, drawing VIPs such as actresses Catherine Deneuve and Isabelle Huppert and former French First Lady Carla Bruni-Sarkozy to the front row of social distancing at the Paris Exchange. French actress Isabelle Adjani even took her turn as a model walking the runway.

This collection is what Mattiussi does best: wearable, masculine, boxy, served with flashes of camp color, fur, or glitter.

The hands of the clock turned to the ’90s with the dominance of statement coats: varsity sportswear, oversized monochrome check jackets, giant oversized numbers in shocking pinks and giant fur coats of the decade.

The women’s style on the women’s model also featured a common feature of the Paris men’s fashion show in the form of a shiny leopard print outerwear or a sleek and stylish silver sequin top.

Dark hues and a black palette give it a masculine feel but are enlivened by flashes of royal orange, sour yellow and the appearance of some Shirley Bassey fur boas.

STEVEN PASARO USING DIGITAL VIDEO

The pandemic has had a devastating impact on many fashion houses, forcing the cancellation of big-budget collections in favor of digital videos featuring new designs.

While these videos attract a global audience on Instagram, fashion editors believe that the heady mix of outfits, performances and celebrities that make up the Paris Fashion Week shows are hard to replicate on digital platforms.

But the new hybrid calendar has been great for some designers, especially small homes. Steven Passaro, appearing on the official Paris Fashion Week lineup for the first time, is one designer whose fame has grown precisely because of his new style of digital presentation.

Passaro, 29, said he didn’t have the money to put on a full Paris Fashion Week show but a video was accessible.

This is my first time on the calendar. It’s probably because the (fashion) edition doesn’t want me to do the show. Making videos means spending less money, Passaro told The Associated Press. This gives smaller homes like ours a huge opportunity.

Passaro, whose aesthetic blends couture with applied stitching and an emphasis on hypersensitive looks, graduated from the London College of Fashion before founding its eponymous brand in 2019. But buyers, he said, weren’t ready to accept his designs at the time.

PFW (Paris Fashion Week) helps us become a credible brand, he said.

LEMAIRE APPLY SIMPLE SIMPLE

Tasteful and simple-looking designs graced the Lemaire runway in a regal collection. The house’s 56-year-old founder, Christophe Lemaire, co-designed with his life partner Sarah-Linh Tran. Her resume includes a four-year stint as Hermes head of women’s fashion.

Design talent was showcased in abundance for the fall-winter show that used meticulous detailing, pre-war style in muted colors and proportionate play.

Men’s and women’s designs blend effortlessly. 1970s block heels are mixed with loose or dropped 1920s waistbands, while oversized coats seem all 1930s and fashion forward.

The limited color palette of fall taupe, beiges and blue-grey is effective in giving this funky collection a classic hue. Even a simple denim jacket evokes a timeless vibe, made loose and clean, with an upbeat and youthful 1950s American feel.

BLUE MARBLE SHOW FUN COLOR

A blend of culture and a melding mentality became an essential element for designer Anthony Alvarez as he staged his first calendar show for his fashion label Blue Marble.

The brand name is borrowed from the iconic photographic image of Earth taken in 1972 by the crew of Apollo 17. Obviously, this is a symbol of branding that draws on Alvarez’s heritage: He was born in New York with a mix of Filipino, Spanish, French and Italian roots.

The collection celebrates this vision of exploring the world with stunning colors and plenty of references. The first look is said to be inspired by the rich, colorful sails of traditional Filipino boats.

Geometric shapes in purples, yellows, and pinks give this collection a funky edge, as they are paired with incredible eccentric details. Psychedelic knitwear, 1990s sunglasses and a custom coat with shimmering hems teamed with boots reminiscent of surfwear.

Alvarez is another example of how a hybrid digital fashion calendar has highlighted smaller homes.

CHANEL TWO GASPARD ULLIEL

French actor Gaspard Ulliel, best known for appearing in Chanel perfume commercials as well as film and television roles, died Wednesday after a ski accident in the Alps. He is 37 years old.

Ulliel played young Hannibal Lecter in 2007’s Hannibal Rising and fashion mogul Yves Saint Laurent in the 2014 biopic Saint Laurent. She is also in the upcoming Marvel series Moon Knight, and is the commercial face of the fragrance Bleu de Chanel.

In a statement to the AP, Chanel expressed her deep sadness at the news, saying that apart from being an ambassador, Ulliel is a close friend of many.

We are fortunate to have by our side during this time someone who is endowed with a great culture, extraordinary talent and unparalleled kindness. He will be greatly missed. Our thoughts and prayers are with his family and friends.

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