Not only for the young and skinny, fashion needs to move even further

TNews of the trauma of Linda Evangelista’s cosmetic procedures has become the talk of the internet not only, with the former supermodel posting on Instagram about what she says the negative effects of the CoolSculpting treatment have sparked an intense response, but also at the show in Milan, where Evangelista once reigned. and where the story has moved from one socially distanced chair to another like a fashion horror story.

This has raised questions once again about ageism and sizeism in industry (and society in general), and a continued focus on extreme youth. Because for all the steps that have been made on the runway towards diversity of skin tones and there has been real progress that is becoming increasingly clear at Milan is that in terms of size and age, very little has really changed.

Indeed, although on the New York runway there were several attempts to broaden the definition of beauty to cover the true spectrum of body types, in Milan the model was once again very young and very skinny. Gigi Hadid flaunts her stuff as a new mom, but generally on Wow, you’d never know she just had a baby category.

Like a lot of things in fashion as we exit the pandemic (or semi-emerge), it feels like a step back, not a step forward. There is comfort in familiarity, of course, but not this particular kind.

Fashion has long been obsessed with the voice of youth and the need to seduce the next generation of consumers. But it can lead you down a very questionable path, as happened at Missoni, where new creative director Alberto Caliri (Angela Missoni stepped down as studio head in May) seems to equate the desire for fresh and new (and TikTok) with some sort of voyeurism. slum.

The old denim was paired with a strap bikini and a halter scarf top that barely covered the bust, a cut section of the trademark knit to expose the sheer bra underneath, and a shimmery halter dress with sequins cut low enough at the back for a permanent G-seed look. There’s nothing empowering about it; prefer objectification. Even the models secretly check to make sure everything is in place.

Missoni is a brand that has always understood the truly universal and sensual power of knitting. A few simple column dresses (and some of the patchwork featured over the cargo pants) do capture that allure. Just not enough of them.

However, it is a reminder that like many outfits on the runway here, they will flatter different types of people. Isn’t it time to show them like that?

Consider, for example, the haute-hippie-on-the-Silk-Road smashup denim and crochet and maxi dresses, paisley and mandala prints on Etro. Which crochet overrides fantasy references that certain personal profiles don’t.

Or Emporio Armani, celebrating its 40th anniversary, which despite being known as the young Armani line offers a quasi-retrospective of signature loose fluid sewing for men and women, flippy little silk dresses, paillette-studded evening wear and desert shades separated into colors. – Sporty primary colors. (A lame jade and lilac romper that slides off one shoulder, on the other, looks like they’re trying too hard for a youthful and playful designation.) It’s a coincidence to say that Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, also aged 40, opted for the black Emporio coat. for his visit to the 9/11 anniversary in New York on the same day as the show.

Or even Tods, where designer Walter Chiapponi has added a bit of sophistication to the brand’s offerings. Jolie Madame’s sleek linen car and trench coat, evening anorak in sheer jewel-toned nylon and graphic knit will look just as good with slick trousers as bare feet of asparagus stalks paired on the runway.

Chiapponi has pushed the brand beyond its reliance on leather this season largely reduced to detailing on elbows and coat patch pockets, a knitted neckline and some really eye-catching accessories (especially the padded bucket hat). In part, he said in a preview the day before the show, it was an acknowledgment that while the brand has its roots as a leather house, it has a responsibility to the environment and climate change, and changing materials is one way to address that.

The result is a step forward. Now is also time for another.

This article originally appeared on The New York Times