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After its release in 1980, urban cowboy immortalized the honky-tonk hang of Gilley’s Club Houston and popularized the mellow country song played there. Exemplified by artists such as Kenny Rogers, urban cowboyThe uniquely polished soundtrack defines what became the prevalent country sound during the early 80s. And while that music had an unprecedented boom, western fashion was also experiencing a renaissance. And that influence hasn’t gone away.
The Birth of the ‘Urban Cowboy’
urban cowboy based on a Dear sir article from 1978: “The Ballad of the Urban Cowboy: America’s Search for True Grit.” In the work, journalist Aaron Latham explores the special nightlife found in Mickey Gilley’s Pasadena honky-tonk and situates the club as an escape from the displacement and economic anxieties many rural migrants experience. The James Bridges film, based on the article, premiered two years later.
Read More: Patrick Swayze’s Mother Was Choreographer for ‘Urban Cowboy’
At the beginning of the film, Buford “Bud” Davis (John Travolta) moved to Houston, Texas from his small hometown to work on an oil rig. Quickly, he was inundated with the lively honky-tonk lifestyle at Gilley’s Club in the nearby town of Pasadena. At Gilley’s, Bud meets Sissy (Debra Wings) and a tumultuous relationship ensues. Bud was old fashioned and, by today’s standards, sexist. While Sissy is a firecracker a woman who just wants to ride a mechanical bull! Oh yeah, there’s also a lot of mechanical bull riding. And dance to country music. All together, good entertainment. But what really made the scene memorable, decades later, was what everyone was wearing.
Fashion from urban cowboy of course characterized by cowboy boots, cowboy hats, and large belt buckles. Plus a blue Wrangler for the men, a tiny tank and a tie shirt for the women. It came in part as a response to the glamor of the disco craze of the previous decade — ironically, also popularized by John Travolta — the dominant 80s Western style was not so Wild West inspired but utilitarian. Like urban cowboy showcase, the wearer is blue collar. Her outfit, while playful and flirtatious, was certainly understated. And physically durable compared to the contemporary trends of the 1980s.
After the release of the film, cowboy sales boots and printed Western shirts, you know the kind with embroidered roses and sewn yokes, soaring. Look at this New York Time article from 1982: “WESTERN CLOTHING MAKERS HEAR FROM THE DEATH OF URBAN FAD COWBOYS.” While the title speaks for itself, the stats are incredible: a $5 billion industry bloated, apparently overnight. Tony Lama, the largest shoemaker at the time, saw 1981 profits increase 88 percent from the previous year. Difference? urban cowboy.
But as Robert Reinhold’s article illustrates, that widespread style would not last long. By the end of 1982, factories and factories throughout Texas who produced the best-selling dresses were suddenly forced and laid off employees and closed. It seems that the Western trend is over forever… until the vast pastiche of our 21st century revive mode again!
“You’re a Real Cowboy?”
Today’s Western Clothing
Lil Nas X’s very popular “Old Town Street” perfectly crystallized the viral Western “moment” that erupted in 2019. And it won’t be the first time, nor the last time, that the cowboy aesthetic will be reused in our evolving culture.
In urban cowboy, Bud is a traditional small town boy trying to hack it in the big city of Houston. As he interacted with more Texas metropolitans, his country’s customs stood out. But the Western style worn today is heralded, somewhat ironically, by the younger generation of millennials (or Gen-Z “zoomers” who mostly have nothing to do with the rural landscape that inspired it. Rodeo’s charm is now drawn to the city from media sources, rather than life experiences. Call it “Cowboy Urban.” For example, shopping for vintage t-shirts is an example of the “Cowboy Urban” lifestyle.
Going out in New York City, it is common to see bolo ties on men in bars. and cowboy boots to almost everyone. Even a ten-gallon cowboy hat is a fairly common sight when roaming the streets of Brooklyn. And like the characters in urban cowboy, this accessory is equipped with a new beacon activated by quick mode. For example, a denim jacket now decorated with Britney Spears-esque Bedazzling, a faux leopard cowboy hat, or a cheap snakeskin jacket. See all below.
The trend seemed to be in full swing — er, two full steps — before the pandemic broke out. Suddenly the mischievous statement was replaced by a different, though equally rustic, Aesthetic Core Cottage: a rapidly growing collection of kitschy tastes in online posts during those socially distant times. There’s something about gingham and isolation that just feels right, like a walk in nature… Meanwhile luxury urban cowboy inherently social. Bud’s character exemplifies the peacock aspect to be sure. But there’s also an undeniable affinity for live music. So when cities open up once again, maybe we’ll see a cowboy comeback soon.
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