An Ode to Light – WWD

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The king is alive and well.

Right after his men’s spring show, which for the designer marked a return to physical format, Giorgio Armani gathered journalists in a gazebo in the garden of his building on Milan’s Via Borgonuovo to reassure them of his physical condition. Twenty days ago, the designer fell down the stairs at a local cinema and fractured his left shoulder. “You can’t imagine the pain,” he said, showing a large scar running down his arm.

Despite her difficulties, the designer got back on track for fashion week and on Monday night in Milan she took the final bow holding the hand of her longtime collaborator Leo Dell’Orco, who she worked with on the men’s line. In fact, Armani praised the work of Dell’Orco and his niece Silvana Armani, who was by his side in the women’s line. “I am preparing my future with the people around me,” said Armani, hinting at the fact that the two will play a key role in the future evolution of the company.

However, Armani with this show shows that he is still in control of his kingdom. And despite his distaste for the idea of ​​trends—a concept he reiterates during meetings after the show—his views on men’s fashion over the past few decades have never been as fashionable as they are today.

In a world where ease and convenience are back in the limelight, Armani’s distinctive sense of style is especially relevant. The relaxed elegance of the designer can be a real choice for men who want to feel comfortable without leaving sophistication. “A man must always maintain his charm,” says Armani, and the model walking his latest runway has a lot of that.

The overall lightness resonates throughout the collection. This affects the choice of materials — tactile but featherweight — as well as the fluidity of the silhouette, and the refreshing vibe of the color palette, where neutrals are paired with electric blues, emerald greens and summer reds.

A deconstructed suit is served alongside a charming separator, where pleated pants or Bermuda shorts are teamed with a baggy blazer, but also with a shirt and bomber made of suit fabric.

The Intarsia sweater features subtle graphics inspired by the natural world, which also influences the motifs that spice up the vest, while silk makes for an elegant shirt that at night, tucked into pants, as Armani suggests, can be worn without a blazer for a more modest look. on evening wear.

Armani, who in February 2020 was the first to decide to stage his fall 2020 show behind closed doors to limit the coronavirus infections that rapidly spiked in Milan during fashion week, closing the show with several models wearing face masks. “This is a reminder that the pandemic is not over. Hopefully things will get better, but this is not the time to let your guard down.” Definitely words of wisdom.



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