Escaping fashion week: ‘I don’t think we really need a calendar’

Brazilian designer Francisco Terra of new French brand Neith Nyer says the Covid-19 crisis has freed him from the need to follow his usual fashion guidelines.

Terra hosted one of the few runway shows during the recent men’s fashion week in Paris, but she did it off the beaten track and in her own style.

The intimate show, with about 100 guests, took place at the Consulate, an arts center based in a former electrical substation, followed by a four-day pop-up shop for direct client feedback.

“Covid has allowed me to see things clearly … to free myself from the shackles of calendars and seasons,” the 37-year-old said in his Paris apartment and studio.

Read more: Back to normal? The Paris fashion house begins its tentative return to the runway

This is the first time since launching its label Terra is not eligible to be part of the official Paris calendar. And after more than a year of lockdowns and virtual encounters, she says she’s not as interested in making video clips as most fashion houses are.

“Clothes are meant to live. I was so frustrated with this digital presentation last year. I couldn’t get into it,” she said.

While the French fashion federation declares itself “democratic”, giving equal weight to all members, Terra says trying to match mega-brand big shows is a struggle for a fledgling label like hers.

Another major obstacle is the urge to separate the men’s and women’s weeks.

“That’s been a problem for me from the start. I’ve freed myself from the gender question, I always mix it up in my shows.”

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Dates are tough, too, Terra adds, as the women’s pret-a-porter shows fall in March and September when the “concept stores” that provide their biggest sales often overwhelm their budget for the season.

There are other practical considerations, such as wanting to sell coats in September rather than waiting for the winter show when the weather is already chilly.

And while it is financially important to present her work during fashion week, when the buyers are all in Paris, the show is less important in terms of image.

“I don’t think we really need a calendar,” he said.

“Young brand image created on Instagram, with celebrities.”

Read more: Take a slow walk for Milan Fashion Week when the menswear show is back again

Sales have been boosted in the past by US singer Miley Cyrus wearing one of her pink silk dresses or model Bella Hadid appearing on social media in one of her silk skirts and asymmetrical latex tops.

There is also a very topical focus on the environment. The new collection features hand-colored denim, recycled cashmere for a second leather top, and plant-based leather jackets.

“It’s a challenge,” he admits. “When we talk to customers about recycling and bios, they think things are going to be difficult, ugly or depressing.”

Hence all bright colors.

“The total pink look is probably my color,” he said with a smile. “I was determined to get people to wear colorful clothes in Paris, which are very chic but also very gloomy and dark, especially in winter.” AFP